1963-1964 Avanti R2-R5 models Latest Topics

Successful Heat Reduction

Wed, 17 Jun 2026 23:23:22 +0000

I'm doing a restoration with modifications to my 63R2. Knowing that heat is a problem with these cars plus living in Central Texas, I decided to do everything possible to reduce heat. I gutted the entire dash and interior. Next, I added self-adhesive heat/sound deadener to the entire firewall area, under the top of the dash, the kick panels, complete console area and the floorboards. All of the rubber boots at the firewall were replaced during this process. Once the new modern A/C-Heater and new but modified dash was back in, I ran the car up to operating condition to see how the heat was affected. Heat was reduced except the floorboard area above the exhaust system was still too hot. I added a second layer of mat in a small area and found that it didn't really make much difference. In doing some research, I found a company called Heatshield Products who make an exhaust wrap specifically for the problem. Their concept is to cover about 3/4 of the exhaust system, leaving the bottom open so some heat can escape as well as condensation. They sell their product in kits with various lengths and widths plus you can buy the material in sheets and cut it to what you need. I purchased the precut product in the lengths that I needed for the head pipe to the muffler, and then a larger kit for the mufflers from Summit Racing. I also bought some of their banding clamps in addition to the wire ties that come with their kits. Once installed, I ran the engine up to full operating temperature and check the floor inside the car. The floor now had an even temperature every place I checked. Lastly, I took a laser temp gun and measured the temperature of the shield and compared it to the bare exhaust pipe. There was a 80-degree average temperature reduction. I'm happy with the result. Here are a few photos.

R2 Harmonic balancer bolts

Sun, 31 May 2026 23:15:19 +0000

My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it.

I found 2 crank bolts, 1 is significant heavier than the other so which is correct for my 289 R2 engine?,,,

R2 Oil Baffle Location

Sun, 31 May 2026 23:26:27 +0000

My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it.

I know this is a baffle that attaches somehow above the oil pump but not sure exactly how.

I I assume it would attach to one of the closest main bearing bolt caps but none of my bolts have a provision to bolted in place there.

Am I missing two special bolts that would have a threaded section that this baffle could be bolted to or is there some other way it should attach to the bottom of the engine block?

IGNITION Timing Marks

Thu, 28 May 2026 17:37:15 +0000

A little bit confused about the correct mark on the harmonic balancer for the ignition timing.

I'm reassembling my R2 engine after the Machine Shop work, which was completely apart when I bought it so I don't know exactly how everything was to begin with.

The harmonic balancer has two faint marks on it, one seems to be halfway across the width, the other seems to be more in the middle but not completely end to end of the width, they are 180° opposite each other.

The one with the F3 next to it seems to be less defined or not as deep impression as the one opposite it but that's the one (f3) that seems to line up with the degree indicator provided I put everything together right as far as the cam/crank gears Etc., neither mark is really etched into the balancer as I would have expected it to be in order to see when timing the ignition.

Hoping someone out there could give me a definite answer based on their experience I have included pictures of the balancer and the marks on it,,,

Connecting Rod Retainers

Thu, 28 May 2026 17:47:54 +0000

Assembling my R2 engine, these retainers or locks came with some small parts along with the complete engine kit, some people say to use them on the nuts on the connecting rods other people say not to, as they may come loose and fall off in the engine.

Wondering what the consensus is, to use them or not to use them, and if so, should they go on with the top facing up or opposite? Also just how tight to put them on, don't know if there's a torque rating for something this light duty or not, I have provided pictures of them going on either way as an example,,,

R2 Engine Pushrods

Tue, 05 May 2026 16:13:00 +0000

Cleaning up the push rods for my R2 engine rebuild and I'm wondering if these push rods should be open at both ends for oil to flow through, both ends have a dark spot as shown in the picture but it seems very hard, don't know if it's dried up oil or if they are supposed to be solid on each end, any help with this would be appreciated,,,

Cylinder Heads

Sun, 26 Apr 2026 00:12:31 +0000

Recently purchased a 63 R2 289 engine which come out of the machine shop but hadn't been assembled.

My question is concerning the cylinder heads, they're not marked in any way that I can see whether they're left or right, driver or passenger side, I'm just wondering if it matters which side of the engine they go on and if it does, is there a way to tell by numbers Etc?

Cylinder Head Dowel Pins

Wed, 29 Apr 2026 01:18:18 +0000

The dowel pins to locate the cylinder heads are missing from my R2 engine block, seems they may have been removed when the block was machined and never replaced, so my question, are there any drawbacks to installing the heads without them?,,,

Bracket Locations (cylinder heads)

Sun, 26 Apr 2026 15:06:33 +0000

Pretty sure these brackets are attached to the cylinder head bolts at some location on the heads (R2 engine), does anyone have a diagram or can tell me where they should be and/or what attached to them ?

'63 Avanti

Sat, 07 Feb 2026 22:23:19 +0000

My '63 R2 has an air cleaner that only has an opening on the bottom. All the other ones that I have seen have a fully enclosed cylinder with the air cleaner partially sticking out from the rear. Why is mine different?

Connecting Rod Torque?

Mon, 13 Apr 2026 23:16:21 +0000

Working on my '64 R2 and the factory manual indicates to torque the connecting rod caps to 52 ft lbs but watching the video of Petes' garage, he is working on a '62 289 and says the torque is 32 ft lbs. I doubt the torque is different for a '62 vs '63/'64 289 so is the manual wrong or is Pete?

Below is the video, FF to around 29 minutes in to see his commentary,,,

Exaust 289 supercharged

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 19:07:41 +0000

So in this Avanti the exhaust has been replaced with 2.5" and flow masters. The original exhaust manifolds are still in place with 2" exhaust for the first 24" I am not racing the car 🤫 just curious if there are headers that work with the stock power steering and starter. They would not be visible from above, blocked by the spark shields and the car has been changed from a R1 to aR3 clone, -heads so is by no means a show car and will be a driver.

value of a 63 possibly r2 has supercharger logos on fender with good title?

Mon, 23 Mar 2026 04:24:48 +0000

63 Avanti super charged

Sun, 15 Mar 2026 23:50:32 +0000

Putting together a 63 that was started by a friend that has passed away. Almost all is new and looks to be R3. I am at a loss as to the purpose of this plate other than as a place for the alternator bracket.

The R2 Project: Carb improvements

Fri, 06 Mar 2026 03:21:06 +0000

We recently purchased a 1963 R2 from a long time Avanti owner, who bought it to restore. He got the drive train, suspension, brakes and fuel system done and decided he couldn’t go any further due to age. I knew that this was the time to purchase this halo car and that I wanted to complete this now "custom restoration". (If you've seen our 2006 Avanti, then you'll understand). I was an educated auto tech in the 70s-80s which provides me an edge on working on cars of this age. Right out of the gate, I saw a problem with the carburetor on cold starts. With the choke operational, the car would run extremely rich on cold starts since the choke plate would remain almost fully closed. Most carbs have a vacuum operated choke pull off diaphragm which prevents this, but not this one. In doing some research, it appears that Carter never provided this on this model carb. So, I started looking and found a GM choke pull off that I thought would work. I also found a linkage piece that I hoped I could use to connect it to the carb choke plate arm, in an oversized available hole in it. First was to mount the pull off using one of its brackets mounting holes along with cutting a notch in the bracket to fit tight up against the carb. Once done, the next thing was to start experimenting with the linkage until it worked correctly with the choke fully closed and let the choke plate open all the way without binding as the car warmed up. I probably bent it 15 “small” times until it worked the way that I needed it to. Lastly, was to connect the vacuum line to the intake manifold. With all of this done, I did a cold start and the car started right up, the choke plate opened with around a 1/4" gap and the car idled perfect.

Both carb parts came from eBay. The Choke Pull off is Rochester 17050733 for 1975-1976 Oldsmobile 455 engine. The link was a secondary vacuum break link for 1968-1974 Quadrajet Carbs.

Next, I had added a custom modern Air Conditioner/Heater system to the car and needed an idle solenoid to raise the idle speed when the A/C was on since the car has an automatic trans. In looking at the limited options available, I chose the Standard Motor Products ES9 Solenoid, without any bracket. Holley offers the same solenoid with a bracket that might work, but they are charging over $150 for the bracket itself. I knew I could make one for labor only using some scrape aluminum angle iron that I had laying around. Once I cut the basic shape, drilled the 2 holes needed, and notched the bracket to fit tight on the carb, the bracket lined right up. I smoothed out design and started up the car and it worked like a champ. The spindle that pushes the throttle is adjustable and comes set midway in the range. I didn’t have to make any adjustment at all.

Here are a few photos.