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  1. Today
  2. Shall do Steve, l happen to be in Victoria at the moment holidaying.
  3. Excellent condition, no leaks, no issues. $200 includes shipping within USA.
  4. Hi Peter- I recently Fitted Classic Enterprises Kit under my '81 in Stainless Steel. There is no requirement to cut away any Fibreglass with this set. I used an importer to bring these over with his other freight and saved a heap of money. Call me if you wish.
  5. Yesterday
  6. The passenger side is done. It came out very nice, and window slides easily. The old adhesive was terrible to remove. Combination of scraping, sanding, abrasive pad, (all the while being careful not to wreck the stainless-steel beads). Also, every chemical that I own. By the way, none of the chemicals did much at all. 2 different adhesive removers didn't touch it.
  7. Fourward: the lip or "ridge" is a "blow off lip". The clamp (in theory) goes on the radiator side of the lip to prevent the hose from blowing off the radiator if you have a pressure build up. The lip is there to prevent the clamp and hose from sliding off the pipe.
  8. I just bought two new clamps. I will do that. Do you put the hose on short of that lip...ridge... on the intake pipe? Because right after that the pipe is not really round, it has a build up of metal, or a portion of the radiator infringes on the pipe. If I put the hose on smooth pipe, short of the ridge, and two clamps? Will try this afternoon.
  9. You guys with your talk and photos of the 2001-2007 cars got me going. The photos of Randy's sharp 2006 coupe doesn't do it justice as his car is fabulous in person. The one photo shown (next to the black 2002 Convertible) was at an EyesOn Design car show a few years ago. We had a 14 vehicle Time-Line (1963-2006) that was a big hit at that show. I had my gold '71 there at the other end of the line-up. I just bought a 2002 Avanti Convertible. Like aardvark said in another topic, he was awaiting delivery. That's where I am right now. I just can't wait to see my new (new to me too) car. It's in Boise. Sure hope that it ships soon. Now my '71 will have a stablemate. Won't be soon enough for me. Life is too short ..... drive an Avanti !
  10. I purchased them in Jan 2022 for $1332 including shipping to FL. The ones he is selling are one piece galvanized. Had to cut away more of the body than I would prefer, but they fit well.
  11. Thanks Do you remember how much the hog troughs were ? peter
  12. Last week
  13. I am not a big fan of this approach, but I have used it successfully on some pre-war (WWII) cars with badly corroded aluminum water pumps. Coat the pipe on the radiator with a light covering of black silicone (RTV) and then install the hose. The silicone "gasket maker' will fill in any deviations in the seal and you will have no leaks.
  14. 63 R1 Avanti. Has anyone installed a lower radiator hose recently? I know this sounds stupid but I cannot clamp it so it stops leaking. Anyone have any tips?
  15. Why not have yours rebuilt? Any used Powershift is likely to require the same.
  16. I'm restoring my 63 R-1, and it looks like the tranny needs replacing. Wondering if a good used one is out there.
  17. Do not have email address for him. However, phone is 865 908 6100 and address is: 1081 Rule Hollow Rd Sevierville TN 37876. I purchased some hog troughs from him a couple of years ago.
  18. Does anyone know if Olympus Avanti has an email address? Thx Peter
  19. Well I think that I a done on the interior work for a little while... until the seats come in from the upholstery shop. All Seat Belts have been installed (Yes the rear belts are Hot Pink for my oldest Grand Daughter - age 7 (She originally wanted pink stripes on the rear seat... I figured the belts were better)). Seat foundations have been installed. The original carpet has been scrubbed and vacuumed multiple times, and the interior leather has been cleaned and conditioned. I am looking forward to getting the seats in so that I can hit the road and put a few miles on it. I had to rework the rear seat belts as the originals mounted horizontally and the replacements were set to mount vertically (not a big issue as I simply needed to rotate the cover 90 degrees - after I popped it off, cut it, & taped it in place while covering any and all edges that may rub the new leather on the seats.) I also filled all of the "open" areas around the seat frame connection points that survived the rusted bolt removal w/ JB Wield and large fender washers between the fiberglass floorboard and seat foundations. For those points that didn't survive I also added large fender washers above and below the fiberglass along with the JB Wield around the holes to help close off the open areas that allow water to enter and rust out everything. The pictures below include backside pictures of the new hardware for the seat frames, backside of the rear armrests showing 2 spring pins that hold them in, seat belts w/ new hardware, etc...
  20. I didn't do any work on the gas tank itself, so I can't give any advice on that. Neil Loughlin posted a series of videos on You Tube where he works on an Avanti. In one video, he describes the steps he completed to remove and clean the gas tank. That may be useful for you. The fuel hoses are pretty basic stuff. The vent hose is the most difficult due to its route. It goes through a rectangular channel and up into the right pillar between the rear window and the right vent window (directly opposite from the filler neck in the left pillar), makes a 180 degree turn, comes back down through the channel into the gas tank compartment, then goes down through a hole in the tank shelf in front of the right side of the tank. It apparently has (or should have) a clip that holds it up in the pillar. The hose passes through two holes going up through the channel and another two holes going back down. In a nutshell: I cut the ends of the old hose that were visible below the channel and pushed it and the clip up into the pillar. I will remove them in the future when I remove my interior for restoration. I'll put the clip on the new hose at that time. I straightened out a wire coat hanger and fed it through the inside of the new replacement hose. I tied an additional piece of aircraft grade .032 stainless lock wire to one end of the coat hanger wire. The coat hanger wire was sticking out one end of the hose, and the .032 wire was sticking out of the other end. The junction where they tied together was crimped tight to fit through the interior of the hose. I bent the end of the coat hanger into a hook and fed it through the holes in the channel so that it formed a guide for the hose. I beveled the end of the hose to make it easier to pass through the holes in the channel. I put some oil on the outside of the hose at the beveled tip to help it get through the holes. I put some oil inside the hose to make it easier to remove the wire once the hose was installed. I pushed the hose up through the forward holes in the channel while I was holding onto the coat hanger wire where the wire came out of the rear channel holes. The hose went up through the holes, was forced to make the 180 degree turn by the wire, and came down through the rear holes (after a lot of pushing and coaxing). When I saw the hose coming back out, I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it down the rest of the way as I fed more hose up into the pillar. Once I was sure I had enough hose to connect to the vent tube, I pulled the wire all the way out of the hose, cut off the beveled tip of the hose, and clamped the hose to the vent tube. I then adjusted the amount of hose in the pillar to make sure I had a tall loop that was higher than the filler opening on the left pillar. I then fed the hose through the hole in the bottom of the tank shelf. It took three tries to be sucessful. Adding the .032 wire and lubricating the hose were the two things I learned between the start and end. Ok, I guess that was a pretty big nutshell.
  21. Mark, thanks for sharing your experiences. I am getting ready to restore my gas tank and would appreciate any additional tips you have.
  22. By the way; the relay was located on the drivers kick panel near the hood release. It is an RAL 4001 which are difficult to find and expensive. I took it apart and cleaned all the contacts. All is well.
  23. Earlier this week I replaced the plug in the T at the fuel pump outlet with a nipple, replaced all the rubber fuel hoses including the tank vent hose, and installed a check valve in the return line to the tank. I did not install the ball valve I purchased. I would have had to engineer a place to install it, which would have taken longer than the time I had available to work on it. The car had already been sitting on the driveway for the last month under a cover, so I needed to get it fixed and out of the weather. I should probably write a technical article for the Avanti magazine describing how I replaced the vent hose. I looked in the article index that was printed in the 2024-2025 member directory, but didn't see anything that described how to do it. That was the most difficult and time-consuming hose to replace. When I finished, I refilled the tank with 5 gallons of gas and leak-checked all the lower hoses. I then drove to the gas station to top off the tank to verify all the upper hoses were not leaking. Everything was dry. Now I just need to install the bulkhead and rear seat.
  24. Try looking for Hawk or Lark gaskets. I think the only difference in the bucket is the location of the hole for the wiring.
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