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Here are a couple of photos of my '81's Rear Springs as removed. The general condition of the Rubber pads and Aluminium Wedges is clearly very poor due to age and Corrosion from salty roads. One wedge was nothing but crumbly muck. I'd imagine your vibration could be attributed to something like this. I will be replacing the Wedges with new ones once I have the car assembled again and I can properly measure the Pinion Angle. There was only enough of the 'good' wedge left to measure an approximate 2 degree tangent. The rubber Insulation pads are available from SI- Page 261 of the current catalogue ... Part no 554620. Wedges are not listed, but are available elsewhere on the Web.

‘Due Cento The Next Generation’ was owned and built for Bonneville speed runs by the late James Lange, who was an extremely talented Studebaker Avanti enthusiast….. RIP James

Regnalbob was confused about the ‘DUE CENTO’ Studebaker Avanti….. The Paxton built Due Cento Avanti, mentioned in the latest issue of AOAI Magazine, was fitted with an experimental Studebaker engine referred to as the ‘R5’ and tested on the Bonneville Salt Flats in 1963…. It would be wonderful, in my opinion, to eventually see Greg Cone’s R5 engine reunited with Richard Bennett’s Due Cento Avanti!

Incorrect Bob…. The name of the turquoise Avanti, #9431, is: DUE CENTO THE NEXT GENERATION Nice try…. Keep swinging kid!!!

There are two Due Cento Avantis. The original Due Cento. The Next Generation Due Cento.

Highly unlikely the problem is converter…. If you have the 400 CI engine, the flex plate could have tossed a balance weight, but you would feel that right away just revving the engine in neutral.

A friend suggested the torque convertor could be out of balance. But everything is smooth reving the engine up high. Any thoughts on this?

Absolutely ! Still a tough job but better done than not. I find I have to split the Tubing longditudinally with a hack saw blade in order to remove it... never had much luck pressing 'em out.

RQB3263/81 .... UP DATE .... TRACK BARS REMOVED ....ONE HAD TO HAVE THE BOLT CUT TWICE ON BOTH SIDES DOWN THRU THE RUBBER BUSHING BY THE BACKING PLATE ...REALLY BAD CONDITION .... CLEANED, PRIMED, PAINTED AND NEW RUBBER BUSHINGS PRESSED THRU WITH LOTSA VASELINE ....ALL NEW GRADE 8 HARDWARE....AND TWO NEW STEEL SPACERS ON MONDAY ...... EXPECTING EASY INSTALL ...HAHAHAHAHA THE REAR SHOCKS I REMOVED ARE IN MY OPINION STILL QUITE SERVICEABLE ... AND ARE FREE TO ANYONE WHO WILL COME TO FLORIDA AND PICK THEM UP CALL BILL 386-466-6434 .....

It has been there since I purchased it. Previous owners took the body off the frame to paint and never finished the car after they put the body back on the frame. That's how I got it. A mystery car.

No it was not working since I purchased the car.

Every frame off that I do, I replace the rear shackle bushings in the frame while you can access them.

Like the article on the one and only ‘Due Cento’ Avanti in the latest AOAI Magazine….. Looking forward to the full story, which will be printed in the next issue!

Had a 1967 Impala SS that developed a vibration, my first car. Thought tires/wheel balance, did not fix it. My dad said he thought a U-joint was binding, removed the drive shaft and sure enough the rear joint was dry and locking up, was not loose, but tight. Back then we were able to buy a new joint for about $5.00 and he and I replaced it, vibration was fixed. Might be worth looking at the u-joints.

Did your p/s operate 0K before you did the repairs?

Is the vibration a recent development… or has it been there since you purchased your Avanti?

Not sure for Avanti IIs, but check that engine and transmission mounts are in the correct holes. For Studes, there are 2 sets, 1 for LHD and the other for RHD.

How about driveline angles? I had a similar issue with a 64 4spd and it was due to the spacers missing. here is discussion: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles?srsltid=AfmBOor0wf1cMqW-8ZB44Bme-ZMX7e3iMTewwuTZlsJauargt1YjTgVj

That's the only thing left I can think of. There's a shop about 50 miles from my house that can do it. If that doesn't fix it I don't know what will!

The driveshaft may need balanced.

Sorry for the late reply- its a standard 14 x 20 parallel flow type coil

Sorry, got no notice that there was a reply here and have not been back for a while. I probably do have the switch, or, you can easily repair these old switches because they are made to take apart. Just bend back the tabs, remove the guts, file the corroded contacts, put back togther.

I put the control valve seals in the correct way per the shop manual and turned the adjusting nut the proper turns again per the manual. I checked the orientation of the hoses as well. I even installed a new pump and have circulation. Maybe the power cylinder is not working and just passing fluid in and out? I have no leaks as well. (first time for that after owning 4 cars with the Bendix system!)