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wdaly

LED - HyperFlash

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I haven't seen any discusiion regarding LED turn signal retros here. I know someone has made LED replacement lights for the rear and recently a magazine article referred to the use of Load Resistors.

A loooong time ago I otdered LED bulbs from JC Whitney. They were the 'Forward Firing Cluster' type and were not even as good as the old filament bulbs (and they hyper-flashed).

It seems as if (I haven't tried it yet) we can forgo the load resistors and replace both the turn signal AND hazard flasher relays with ones that work with LEDs. Check out Superbrightleds (.com) and input your car (mine is 1988 Chevy Monte Carlo) and WALA! They have them and for as much or less than the resistors. These are square units and may not fit every situation (on the '87-'88 Avanti the mounting location has no interference vs the original round flashers). They do Not make any clicking noise though. Also, some people (not necessarily GM-types) have had to reverse the polarity on the flashers to get them to work (simple cross wiring (?).

I bring this up because I really can't see using the load resistors as their is no benefit to power use reduction and they get Hot. Also, I did do this kind of flasher/swap on my son's Corolla and it was perfect. Can't do it on my Camry (no flasher).

We are kind of lucky in that we don't have to worry about Canbus (?) or CK sockets. I recommend only 'Tower' type LEDs and for our use the smaller number of LEDs. FYI: they say you should use the same color LED bulb as the color of the lense.

I have replaced some of the interior lights with LED and what-a-difference!

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For the turn signal flasher on my 87 Avanti I had to use a flasher with added ground wire to get them to flash. I ordered all my bulbs from superbrite led. Talk to a tech and they will give you all the bulb numbers so can order and will explain different bulbs needed. They were very helpful. Very satisfied will company and results. Expensive to change every bulb on car.

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Hi Wopony12:

Actually, I finished this project a few days ago (it took some doing though). I ordered the black flasher #CF12ANL-01. The only other 2 prong flasher was the RED one except the power/battery prong location was 180degress wrong! Long story short - the flasher did nothing. I found an old EF (electromechanical / one step up from thermal) flasher and it actually worked, but only if I kept at least 2 of the rear light bulbs as filament instead of all LED. I have 2 leds located towards the middle (where the back-up lights were on the older cars). Interestingly (and quite cool) the leds flash a split second before the others so that I'm getting a sequential light flash from middle to side.

What turned out to be a royal pain was installing the leds into the 2 front turn signal sockets (they wanted no part of it and I broke one of my $15 Led's just trying to push and turn into the socket). I eventually wound up accidentally using the Sylvania Zevo Hi-Power white for the front, but again only after using my Dremel to carefully cut off a part that was preventing the bulb socket from clearing the ground prong on the side of the socket that came with the car. Even then one of the bulbs fell out of the socket as I was trying to install it into the light fixture hole (not much room behind there). Some day I might look into replacing the 1157 socket with a 3157 socket IF I can find one that actually matches the hole-tab design of what we have (Ford or GM?).

A couple of notes: Phillips and Sylvania LEDS are out there, but just try and find them in Amber for 1157. Also, 2 prong flashers do not seem to be available at local parts stores if you're looking for the Electronic type (too Old-Fashioned?). Finally, (I guess) my understanding is that if your left and right front and rear turn signals are on the same circuit (one for left & one for right) you can simply install a 3ohm load resistor (one on each side) for a total of just two to be able to add just enough resistance to operate all LEDs without using 4 load resistors (I'll probably break down and try this on my Camry by only hooking-up 2 3ohm load resistors in the trunk area left and right to get front and back turn signals to work).

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I used a 2 prong flasher with an added ground wire and grounded the wire. I thing I got it from Jegs. I didn't want to mess with resistors. I think the flasher was $15.

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I just ordered one on Ebay ($15). Interesting thing - I was driving with the headlights on and happened to notice that both turn signal dash indicators were 'glowing' dimly. I can only attribute this (although I'm not an electrical engineer) to a feedback situation related to the filament side markers in front versus the LED turn signals as our GM wiring has the marker ground attached to the hi-power turn circuit for Ground / thus the alternating flash when the headlights are on. My understanding is if I used LED marker lights they would not flash at all with the headlights ON because of LED polarity issues. In any case I don't have a problem with the glowing indicator lights and I doubt the pig-tail flasher will change that, but I will install it anyway THANKS. btw the way to test for the polarity of a turn signal flasher mount is to set a voltmeter to 20V and place the red pin to the "X" location (according to what your flasher has marked) and the black to ground. With the ignition 'On' if you get a 12V reading then the "X" position truly is the Power/Battery vs "L" for Load. If you don't get a 12V reading move the red pin to "L" to see if the set-up is reverse polarity. I just received 2 V-leds 3 ohm load resistors for my Camry project. These things are well designed and built. I also ordered the pigtail adapters to give me more mounting location choices. I only bring this up because I haven't seen 3 ohm load resistors available anywhere else.

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