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Electric window improvements


Guest Larry Delazzer

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I don't know about the door itself, but by the time of the early '80s the switches and most wiring was moved to the console. That's an improvement...less can happen to the wiring as the bundle of wires to the door is much smaller. I believe they also changed window motors by then, but I don't know of that was an actual improvement or simply a supply decision.

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Probably more of a supply decision, but the good thing is the motors and plastic gears are much cheaper and easier to get. 84 to 86 Jeep Cherokee interchange nicely as I recall. Probably most Chrysler cars of that era used the same thing.

I went through my power windows in my 73 and they've been working just fine since.

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84 to 86 Jeep Cherokee interchange nicely as I recall. Probably most Chrysler cars of that era used the same thing.

I went through my power windows in my 73 and they've been working just fine since.

Could you elaborate on those statements, please.

1. What year Avanti's do those Jeep Cherokee motors interchange with? (if there's a substitute for the '63 through the 1970's PW motors, I'd like to kow that)

2. What did "went through my power windows in my 73" consist of doing?

Thanks,

Wayne

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Could you elaborate on those statements, please.

1. What year Avanti's do those Jeep Cherokee motors interchange with? (if there's a substitute for the '63 through the 1970's PW motors, I'd like to kow that)

2. What did "went through my power windows in my 73" consist of doing?

Thanks,

Wayne

Wayne,

As for what years, I don't know for sure but I think they switched over in the early 80's? I know our club president just did his, but it was an 85 Touring Coupe. Although I seem to recall they switched before that. The only substitute for the early ones is one for an early T-Bird as I recall. I bought one from SI for about $200 and I think I would have saved about $20 going with the Ford reproduction and I didn't feel like gambling at the time!

When I got my 73 the right window would not go up all the way without help and about that time there was an excellent write up in the Avanti Magazine about working on the power windows, you might remember it. It gave me the courage to tear into mine, so I removed everything from the right door and got the regulator and motor on the bench. After cleaning it up and testing it, I realized that my motor was just about on it's last legs. That's when I bought the new one along with all the rollers and went about cleaning all the tracks and replacing the rollers as I put the regulator back in. I put it all back together and bolted it up as it was before. I luckily had no cracks in my door or any problems with my return spring.

After going through all the adjustments with Brad Bez coaching me, it still would not go up all the way. It took some time and detective work to find that one of the bolts that someone had substituted in the center pivot mount was too long and the regulator arm would run into it about 2" from the top. With help, it would slide around the end of it. After locating the proper length bolt, the only thing to was to adjust the upper stop so it wouldn't sail out the top of the door.

On the driver's door I just cleaned the regulator in the door and tried to get some lubrication where it needed to be along with the new rollers and went through the rather involved process to adjust the tracks. Other than that, I cleaned all the contacts in the door switches and everything has been great since then. Of course, that's about 2 years and 1500 miles, so hardly an acid test.

I had my old motor rebuilt for a spare, but that cost me $100. I think the Chrysler ones are about $60 new, plus the whole system is two wire instead of the 4 wire system the old ones used.

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Thanks for sharing. I don't remember that article, but I did have quite a bout with the passenger side window on one of my Avanti's years ago; you could actually see the door panel bow inward when the window was operated, and the inner door fiberglass panel was cracking in several places from the power window repeatedly flexing it, and some of the bolt holes were elongated.

I made some 1/8" sheet aluminum brackets and spacers contoured with a jigsaw to fit within the recesses of the inner door panel's contours (and used the window mechanism bolts to anchor them to the fiberglass). Those brackets tied the various window mechanism attachment bolts together to stop the bowing, spread the force loads, and hopefully keep the panel from developing more cracks.

I think that was back about 1982, long before I bought a digital camera and regrettably I didn't document the repair. I'm pretty sure I subsequently sold that car (I've owned 6 Avanti's over the years, and can't always remember what I did to which car).

Edited by WayneC
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  • 3 weeks later...

At a point unknown to me ( or anyone else, AFAIK), the mid to late 70's Avanti went from those dinosaur Bosch motors to a similar type made by United Technologies (replacement parts giant). Then, someone at Avanti Motors had the brilliant idea to upgrade to a newer technology and get rid of that 63 type motor extension to the regulator and those heavy Amp draw motors entirely.

A modern power window motor changes direction by reversing the motor polarity, using only 2 light gauge wires. The original Avanti motor may have also done it this way, but had to use four 10 gauge wires to each motor.

In 2013, using a Dremel cutter and about 15 minutes, my car was converted from the original type Avanti regulator to accept a similar dimension motor that cost $52 or even a smaller $35 Ford F150 motor. The older technology (63 to 7?) also needs to have a relay pack fabricated and stowed in the console. The original switches can be used to activate the relays and uses only 2 of the wires.

The 7? to 83 style Avanti just needs to have the F150 motor adapted to the regulator. They already have the relay pack somewhere and use lighter duty switches.

I realize that some of our vendors have heavily invested in replacement motors and other service means to make a living. So this modification was never put online. Between the time that my car was redone and today, the price on the motor used went from $52 - $250 ( thank you Dorman), however the Ford type is still an attractive price and can be put into the mid 80's Avantis.

Edited by silverstude
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  • 4 weeks later...

By last winter both of my 82's windows had stopped all together. I removed the regulator mechanisms, modified them with a dremel and replaced the old motors (both of which had cracked magnets that stopped them from turning) with Dorman motors out of a Ford truck for $35 apiece, cleaned and regreased the regulators. The gears and bushings in the regulators fit the Dorman gear and shaft perfectly. No wiring changes were necessary except to put new connectors on the Avanti wires. The windows work like a charm now.

chuck

RQB-3553

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Chuck: "replaced the old motors (both of which had cracked magnets that stopped them from turning) with Dorman motors out of a Ford truck for $35 apiece,"

More precise info would be nice... what year & model Ford truck, or a part number from the Ford motors? What sort of modifications were done with the Dremel tool?

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I have not had any window motor issues with my 76, but my 89 convertible has had several issues with all 4 window switches.

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I used a Dorman 742-251 and a Dorman 742-250 (opposite sense). Once you get them you can easily see what has to be cut away-don't worry, the shaft is the same diameter as the old Avanti regulator and the gear meshes perfectly. It took me 15 minutes per regulator to make the modifications. Used two 7mm bolts from Lowes to hold the new motors on. They work absolutely outstandingly!

chuck

RQB-3553

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  • 4 years later...

The original switches and wiring was something like 8 wires through the door. Later on there were only 2 wires on the motor and the switches were somewhat simplified. The early to mid 80s they used the more common and robust Chrysler motors . For switches and wiring I love the Nu-Relics Ford kits that are almost an exact match for the early Avanti ones. If you want the later look they also have that. They even have if you want them in the console or on the doors.

https://www.nu-relics.com/category-s/545.htm

https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/217.htm

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oops meant to say Nu Relics so the Jeep motor i bought does not hook up with the regulator gear - I ordered the new relics motor and regulator - will try that 

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Here's my install of the Nu Relics setup on my 74 that came with manual windows. There are a few mods that need to be made for a successful installation.

Be sure to scroll down the post to be Brad Bez's suggestion on bracing the motor.

It's pretty straight forward and they work well.

I'm not sure why the youtube video is jerky because the window moves smoothly both up and down. It's not the first time I've seen this on a youtube video however. 

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/108773-avanti-nu-relics-power-window-installation

Edited by Avanti83
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  • 2 months later...

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