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Ignition switch


schuyler

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I have Avanti R2 # 63R2318, built 12/62. When I insert the ignition key, it must go in "upside down". That is, the "teeth" up and the "flat side" down. Seems wrong to me. The door locks ( which use the same key ) work "right side" up. Or is that the way the lock worked from the factory? My original owner's manual does not address this issue. Maybe someone along this cars history possibly installed the ignition lock upside down? I have seen old fords ( early 50's ) with "upside down" keys. Your thoughts? Thank you for your expertise!

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Gunslinger. Thanks for your input. Yep, the switch is upside down in the owners manual! You know your "stuff"! Funny, I took this car to a local car show recently and won a trophy for best "Orphan car"! Every one at the show thought Studebaker Avanti's to be a little "quirky". Actually the reason I originally wanted a Avanti is because they are different. Nothing against them, but I did not want just another 55-57 Chevy. Thank you Raymond Loewy!

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"Quirky" is a great description for the Avanti. At times I've used stronger language to describe them...always when working on one. All cars have quirks...Avantis have more than their fair share it seems.

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That's pretty much normal but I've seen it both ways. If you have the owners manual, the photo of the dash shows the ignition switch "upside down". You've nothing to be concerned about.

The photos show the correct position for the switch. The flat part of the key goes down and the teeth up.

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I was taught that the key teeth should face up, as they go into the ignition, lock etc.. The reason being, with the tumblers "on top" of ,say the ignition switch, they were less likeky to collect dust and dirt, brought into the switch by the key.

John

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I figure I should throw this in so you don't find out about it the way I did, through experiencing it...

Make sure you don't allow the ignition switch to start slowly rotating so that the key actually needs to be turned sideways to go in the slot. This would indicated that your switch has worked its way out of the notches on the bezel and is slowly backing out of the mounting hole. If allowed to continue you could end up experiencing what happens when the hot connector on the ignition switch contacts the dash bracket. Sparks will fly! If you are lucky you will not fry your wiring and with a bit of a reach behind the switch you should be able to push the switch towards you and turn it while holding the bezel in front to get it locked back in place.

For me this happened while I was actually driving the car home after I had just purchased it... I was 20 miles into a 1200 mile drive. Not a whole lot of fun!

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I figure I should throw this in so you don't find out about it the way I did, through experiencing it...

Make sure you don't allow the ignition switch to start slowly rotating so that the key actually needs to be turned sideways to go in the slot. This would indicated that your switch has worked its way out of the notches on the bezel and is slowly backing out of the mounting hole. If allowed to continue you could end up experiencing what happens when the hot connector on the ignition switch contacts the dash bracket. Sparks will fly! If you are lucky you will not fry your wiring and with a bit of a reach behind the switch you should be able to push the switch towards you and turn it while holding the bezel in front to get it locked back in place.

For me this happened while I was actually driving the car home after I had just purchased it... I was 20 miles into a 1200 mile drive. Not a whole lot of fun!

The other issue with these ignition switches is that the "Notches" you referred to, often break off, with the resulting direct short when the switch comes apart and comes in contact with the bar that runs behind the switch, in the lower area, on the back side of the dash.

There is a replacement bezel available, (I believe it is S. I. ) , but I was not impressed with the look or the quality. I made one from Stainless Steel Round Stock. The Bezel Face Ring,( The portion that you see ) is a few thousandths larger in diameter so as to cover the "ring", in the painted dash overlay, that was created by the old bezel ,on the dash overlay from the original switch. Polished and installed it looks like the original.

Prior to making my own bezel, I had a piece of foam rubber wedged in behind the switch and the steel bar, so that if the switch came apart, it could not come in contact with the bar.

If you replace the bezel, or have the switch apart for some reason, it is the opportune time to polish the face of the ignition switch using a Dremel tool and hard cotton buffing wheel and Stainless buffing rouge. It will look brand new.

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