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POOR PERFROMANCE OFF THE LINE FOLLOW UP


studequest

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The stock Avanti Torque converter has a stall speed of about 2100 RPM

The code on the converter is HR with numbers following

As it turns out, my converter is HH meaning that the transmission was probably worked on at 

some time and a different torque converter was used.  I checked the stall speed by putting foot on 

brake and revving engine until it stalled and I got to no more than 1200 rpm.. so I have no

low end torque and it does not appear to be a matter of timing or carburetion.  ( carburetor was 

rebuilt by an exoert no more than a week ago) I believe  I sourced an HR converter which can be rebuilt

The trick will be to pull the transmission without pulling the engine.. Can be done by those who have the experience

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https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/engine-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

I have done it and used this to support the engine. place the ends of the support on the lip just inside the fender line at the back of the engine, and support the engine by the back two intake manifold bolts. Then you can remove the transmission, and cross member and undo the exhaust and remove the bellhousing.

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Since the torque converter was changed, we might as well ask if you know for certain your rear gear ratio?

Second question; do you start in low gear, manually shift to second?

Bottom line, the Studebaker 289" is a small engine in a heavy car.  It needs all the help it can get to approximate the performance some take for granted with today's cars.

jack vines

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REAR END IS 3.31... 

i start in Drive.  Even in 1st gear the car lugs until it gets to 1500 RPM and it has always been like that even before the engine was rebuilt.

Thus I believe it is a torque converter issue

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Brad Bez  Thanks for that Tip

Would this be needed if the car was on a lift?  I am a little confused how this would work with a lift..I am planning to have a transmission shop do all of this

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Yes, it has to be used. The weight of the transmission, and the mounts supporting it are on the bellhousing. If you remove it the engine will swing down and hit the firewall and break the distributor and the front will hit the steering and dent the oil pan without supporting it. You can't remove the bellhousing without supporting the engine. You can't support the weight of the engine from below with a stand on the oil pan or it WILL dent. It won't support the weight.

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12 hours ago, studequest said:

REAR END IS 3.31... 

i start in Drive.  Even in 1st gear the car lugs until it gets to 1500 RPM and it has always been like that even before the engine was rebuilt.

Thus I believe it is a torque converter issue

Yes, changing the torque converter to the proper R-series unit will make a noticeable improvement.

When another Avanti owner rode with me, he commented on how much more responsive mine was starting in 1st gear, but he said, "That's just too much hassle to do that back-and-forth manual shifting every time."  He put a Chevy in his; problem solved.

jack vines

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