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About PackardV8

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  • My Avanti
    1963 R4370

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  1. Well, there's no way around needing a bell housing, a flywheel, a pressure plate, a clutch disc, a pilot bearing and a hydraulic clutch kit. How much you pay for them, whether you use OEM or aftermarket is up to you. jack vines
  2. At a guess, the intent was to lower the car and the air shocks were to stiffen the suspension to avoid bottoming. Lowering the suspension also requires lengthening the radius rods. And yes, I'd return it to original configuration and fit new spring eye, sway bar and radius rod eye bushings and the best gas shocks I could buy. jack vines
  3. Over the years, I've driven Avanti II with the original SBC 327". 350", 400" and 305". Today, there have been so many engine swaps, it's anyone's guess which engine and transmission is in a given car. jack vines
  4. If one is going to all that work, suggest adding a direct reading O2 meter to confirm the jetting is optimum for your use, altitude and temperature. Of course, on an R2, it can never be optimum. The jetting which would give the best MPG at cruise would be terminally lean at WOT under boost. The jetting which will give max power and be safe under boost will be too rich at cruise. Knowing where it is now is the first step to getting it right. Also, confirm the correct intake manifold gaskets are being used. The R2 gaskets restrict the exhaust heat crossover. Personally, I block th
  5. Yes, the Saginaw is a better steering box by most every measure. jack vines
  6. Since your body is off the frame, consider spraying the entire underside and inside with LizardSkin Spray-on Heat and Noise Insulation, or the OZ equivalent. The Avanti is incredibly noisy and hot inside by today's standards, so anything done to keep heat and noise out is a worthwhile investment. https://lizardskin.com jack vines
  7. Close, so old stogy instead of new cigar. The OD was the Hone-O-Drive. But yes, because of the X-member, there is no overdrive which can be added to the rear of the B-W tranny. FWIW, if one changes the rear axle ratio to a 3.07 and gets used to shifting the B-W through all three gears, it works OK. Jack Vines
  8. The block serial number should be from a '63 Lark. The chrome parts were available from SASCO as leftovers from R-series and Avanti production. The cylinder head castings were 1957 low compression heads, but who knows was was on production shipped to OZ in '63? The crankshaft should be the long snout, but again, dealing with export and bitsa, who knows? jack vines
  9. Congrats on solving two problems in one go. Now, it's time to do the same to the front firewall. It's Swiss-cheese full of holes originally plugged with rubber grommets and bellows. Sixty years later, most of those flimsy barriers are "perished" as you would say. A day spent removing the carpet, re-sealing the firewall and then layering it with Dynamat will make for a great reduction in heat, noise and fumes. jack vines
  10. Do not believe most internet parts searches. The Summit/Jegs/Rock Auto, et al, pay that cheap whore Google to put their listing at the top, regardless of whether they have ever stocked that part. Then, when you click on it, the closest random collection of junk pops up. (Do I feel strongly about this? Yes, as they waste hours of my time when I know exactly what I'm trying to buy, but they hijack my search.} jack vines
  11. That's a new one on me and one I'd never have considered attempting. Close-up photo? jack vines
  12. It's not just appearance. Seat engineering has improved as much as every other area. The OEM seats in my '63 were ahead-of-their-time buckets, but way out of date forty years later. I installed a pair of heated leather six-way-power seats from a Japanese luxury car and they transformed the feel of the car. Through the inner ear, we feel the motion of the car. Changing where the inner ear is positioned within the car changes how we perceive the ride and handling. The OEM buckets are bolt upright and close to the steering wheel. The replacement seats allow moving rearward, reclining s
  13. http://www.studebaker-info.org/R3parts/r3headsa.jpg That hand-stamped number doesn't appear to be a casting number, which by definition is part of the molding process. Only the person who did it can confirm, but since Studebaker never stamped anything "STU-V", insn't it likely as part of their rebuild of the engine, STU-V ground off the OEM casting number, modified the head and stamped their own identifier? jack vines
  14. Agree, buy the best car cosmetically and mechanically you can find. Look for a A II without a sunroof. The aftermarket sunroofs were a disaster; they leaked, delaminated and are expensive plague to get out. The SBC is the least expensive part of a good car. We can build a strong, durable 383" or 400" for cheap. The 4-speed overdrive automatic is a real plus also. jack vines
  15. For me, exterior and interior color is not normally the deciding factor when considering a used car, but some age better than others. Recently I looked at a nice Avanti II in overall excellent condition. However, I just couldn't get past the interior. It was done in a Victorian bordello button-tuft red velour. That color, design and material would just hurt my eyes every time I opened the door. I mentioned to the seller that wouldn't have been my first choice; reminds me of '60s Buicks. The seller smiled and said, "That's the only reason I have the car. My wife loved the interio
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