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Devildog

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Posts posted by Devildog

  1. Have not been on here for a while hope all are doing well.  A few weeks ago my Bendix Power Steering was leaking at the control valve, we cleaned and installed the two new lip seals. It lacked worse than before new seals. Another guy was helping and did not pay attention to which end was which on the spool valve as he pulled it out. i have replaced two of these on my friends car with full success, re-inserted same end as when came out.

    The instruction say to re-insert the same direction. I measure the dimensions and no difference. However, on the pic attached there are detailed machined groves point by the knife blade.

    Anyone know which end goes in first ????? groves or smooth end first.  If you know you will be a Master Avanti parts trivia contestant.

     

    many thanks

    Joe

    PS .jpg

  2. On this 64 that I have been helping my friend, the alternator is stock 40 amp. with electric fuel pump, A/C operating the charge will just stay positive at a fast idle. However, if use headlights, must have high road rpms to keep + charge.  Charging system is responsive, just neg charge if using lights.

    Is a voltage regulator adjustment possible ?

    Can a similar style alternator with high 60-80 amps be installed     Anyone have suggested model alternator.

    Thanks

    Joe

  3. Norm, just to reinforce Avanti 83 comments, these modern EFI throttle body carb swaps are easy and dependable. I installed a Powerjection III on my 75 Avanti 400 SBC. The Edlebrock, Holley etc. are all good.  The biggest job to installing these on classic car is installing a fuel return line...I believe your R2 already has a fuel return line. 

    Need a mounting adapter because these EFIs are are more modern 'square' bolt pattern, Carter AFB is different; but that should not be a big problem. Maybe even a phenolic spacer can be made an adaptor.

    These modern units are designed to use turbo/super chargers, they have the mass flow sensor built in. They basically will run out of the box with a few basic point->click settings such as cu. in. etc.  The units will 'learn' and program themselves based on driving patterns. All I did with mine was with one point->click lean the mixture by 1% over a several months until I lost a little performance then added back 1%.

    I have driven it 10,000 miles from Houston to annual meets in St. Louis, KC, and South Bend with no problems. The only problem I have experienced are bad TPS (throttle position sensor) which is same as used on many GM cars ($18 at auto parts) which can be replaced with two small screws in 2 minutes. When TPS failed, still runs but erratic throttle.

    Two of my buddies put these on their older SBC Corvettes and work good...except the 'engineer' who can not leaving anything untouched. He is constantly screwing with the settings. So, I would go and 'erase' all his setting and 'click' default and tell him hands off. After 4-5 times, I block the computer plug with aircraft safety wire and put an old lead seal on it to keep him out !!

    Your R2 engine would do nicely with an EFI throttle body, that would be a fun project.

    Joe

  4. I had great success reducing the heat by wrapping the exhaust pipes with 2" ceramic cloth webbing. That gets much of the heat past the cabin. JEGS and Summit have it in 25ft rooms for $20 ???????.   I wrapped the pipes before I installed the floor insulation material...it made significant different. 

     

    Joe

  5. Power window on 64 R1 was suck mid range, could not budge up or down even with hand assist. I checked circuits and could hear relays engaging motor, some slight movement.

    Removed regulator and motor assembly as described in Win/Fall 2011 Issue 156 (great article Bill Henderson).

    Problem was the tab which hooks the spring broke (pic).  So, I cut a small piece from angle iron and welded it in. This moved hook up 1/2 inch left which would loose some tension on assist spring. However, while trying to hook spring, I broke the 'hook' off end of spring; heated tip and bent another 90° tip 'hook'. This shortened spring 3/4 inch.

    IMG_1525.thumb.jpg.6834d9fa9cf20a9955d5207c602d7609.jpg 

    I reassemble and installed AFTER cleaning and properly lubrication, not excess but in true pivot and roller points. Make sure get a little grease in the motor bushing with q-tip.

    Even though my spring is non-standard, it runs up/down nicely.

    HINT: To check if mechanism is binding VS. electrical/motor problem. If mechanism is free and lubed , you can reach through access panel on lower door and  turn the whole regulator system by spinning the phenolic coupling (motor-gear drive) with your thumb and finger. It moves the window a fraction of inch with a few turns. Avoids removing entire regulator assembly to test

    Joe

     

    IMG_1522.jpg

  6. OK, I think I have the high temp idle problems solved or at least manageable. Rather than the 650 RPMs, I adjusted to 900 RPMs which gives about 750 when in drive. Add in the A/C and drops down to 600. 

    Made sure the temp compensation tap was closed (pushed down closed) while adjusting idle screws.

    I played with adjusting the tab...think I have tab set so it does not open until surface temp on bimetallic is about 160-180°F. 

    I have driven a total of 3 hours in urban-suburban driving in 95 degree with no stalling with A/C running. 

    Thanks for advice from all.

    Joe

  7. Great idea about the LED bulbs.   On one of my old Corvettes (61) I did some under dash work, I debated replacing the bulbs (before LEDs available) They all were the original bulbs, 50+ yrs and 200,000 miles that I have owned it.   So I did...you got it, a new bulb failed in less than 6 months.   LED are of course no concern.

    Thanks

    Joe

  8. Another issue on this 1964 R1 is the tach is inop. after sitting for 20+ years.  We reviewed the electric circuits wiring diagram and looked thru the workshop manual, but no procedure to test the tach.  I have heard the round sending unit module (in the can under dash) is the usual problem, we have a replacement to install.

    Any tips or comments ?

    Thanks for the usual good advice

    Joe

    IMG_1513.jpg

  9. Thanks to all again. A short report for future readers:

    I did not completely tear down the carb; however, removed idle screws, etc. put carb cleaner through the all small holes I could access. Then blew 40 PSI air through, repeated twice with cleaner and air.  Pulled metering rods and blew carb cleaner through as well. Some of the circuits did seems to flow better with air after carb cleaner. 

    Then adjusted all the external linkages per the workshop manual. Rather than 650 RPM, I set idle to 850 which gives me about 750-800 when in gear, 750-800 with A/C engaged.  No run on when switched off.

    I set idle screws with a vacuum gage to peak at about 15 inches.  Very smooth in gear with A/C engaged...no hesitation.

    I will do some suburban driving with stop/go driving.  Make a report after a few days evaluation.

    Joe

  10. Thanks to all for your good suggestions. Done most all those things.

    MFG, that thick gasket to insulate the carb base from hot intake is a life saver, in fact on my old Corvettes with WCFBs, I make gasket from 3/16 oak plywood. These old WCFBs start when hot in 95° weather like they were FI.

    That bi-mettalic bar, as I read the manual, should be closed or seated down when the engine is cooler...DO I READ THIS CORRECTLY? Then raise-> open if the engine is high heat. This one is slightly open when cold, I can push the button down slightly. As I see this extra circuit, it should be down/closed when cold then up/open if very warm ????

    Attached a pic of the bi-metallic bar Hot Temp Compensator  (red marker zig-zag)

    Again thanks all

    Joe

    AFB Hot Idle Compensator.jpg

  11. Need guidance, this R1 was setting for 20 years, but have it running and road worthy. Probably have driven it 800 miles highway and suburban, runs go and static idle is OK.

    Problem when put in gear (auto) can not get smooth idle..then it gets worse and RPM drop while sitting at stop light. Then dies and often hard to start.

    The workshop manual discusses Hot Idle Compensator and refers to a THERMOSTATIC VALVE ASSEMBLY in the carburetor. Not familiar with this compensator, worked with WCFBs which do not have this thermo-valve.   It is in Houston with currently 90+ temps

    Before I dig into this, I thought some of you may have some suggestions.

    Where would I find a new  THERMOSTATIC VALVE ASSEMBLY ?           Thanks for good support you all give.

    Joe

  12. On 4/3/2018 at 5:27 PM, schuyler said:

    Devildog,

    I have a 1963 that had the exact same problem of intermittent power window operation. I found the bulletin from Avanti advising to move the circuit breaker. I moved the breaker to the interior of the car ( driver "kick panel" area ) and the problem went away. I guess the circuit breaker can't handle the engine bay heat.

    As always great help on this forum. Thanks to both of you.

    Joe 

  13. Hi all, have not been on for a while. My 75 is running great. I am helping a novice owner with R1. The circuit breakers on the power windows often go intermittent. I reviewed some old threads and saw a copy 17FEB64 service letter suggesting moving breaker from firewall to inside the cockpit to avoid high heat.

    I looked in service manual but it has nothing on wiring of window circuit.

    1.Is there a circuit drawing for R1 power windows?

    2.I saw comments about adding an additional spring to lift window

    3.any articles available about servicing these old windows

    4.maybe an update using newer relays, etc. rather than designing from scratch?

    Thanks for all your good help

     

    Joe

     

  14. Hi all, have not been on for a while. My 75 is running great. I am helping a novice owner with R1. The circuit breakers on the power windows often go intermittent. I reviewed some old threads and saw a copy 17FEB64 service letter suggesting moving breaker from firewall to inside the cockpit to avoid high heat.

    I looked in service manual but it has nothing on wiring of window circuit.

    1.Is there a circuit drawing for R1 power windows?

    2.I saw comments about adding an additional spring to lift window

    3.any articles available about servicing these old windows

    4.maybe an update using newer relays, etc. rather than designing from scratch?

    Thanks for all your good help

     

    Joe

     

  15. Hi all,

    The 63 which recently followed me home has a very bad tranny front seal leak.

    1.If I pull the tranny and take to a tranny shop to install new seal and generally inspect, what would be a fair price?

    2.With a little advance notice can a tranny shop get the seals, etc or should I get them since these are 50 years old and not common to routine repair?

    3.Any other experience comments?

    Thanks in advance for all your help

    Joe

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