Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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1 hour ago, pantera928 said:
I have already done a google search to no avail including Amazon
Old address from Avanti Magazine, but if you Google it you'll find some info on Stan and also a phone number. He appears to be in his 80's currently.
Stan Gundry
4142 Burton St. SE
Grand Rapids, MI 49546 -
2 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
My experience has been to use a hydraulic press. They are really in there good.
Same experience here. IAC I reverse the nut and turn it down flush with the top of the thread.
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11 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Have any of you installed a blue tooth enabled radio in your Avanti that would fit where the original radio was without cutting up the dash?
If so, which one did you use?
Thanks
I don't know anything about them but may be worth a contact.
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Does it continue to vibrate as you decelerate or stop vibrating at a lower speed?
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I'm going to say false only because you specifically stated the bearing set. When I changed my 54K over to Camaro rotors, the rotors fit fine but way in the deep crevasses of my old brain I seem to remember needing to change one bearing. 50/50 chance.
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We can settle up in South Bend. I'm planning on going anyway. I'll let you know if plans change.
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If you are not squeamish about cutting the dash, you can pull off the trim plate on the side and cut a hole large enough to access a lot of the area and leave the mounting holes intact. Did that on my 83.
Still a mess but helps some.
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1 hour ago, 64studeavanti said:
Not worried about mounts. Let me know how much and if you would consider shipping. Otherwise, I plan on being in South Bend for the IM.
Depends on how fast you want it. $20 if I bring the whole seat to SB or $30 + shipping if I tear it apart and ship it. Shipping will probably be a bit pricey but I'll rip it apart if you want and get some pricing.. I'll need your zip code.
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This is the drivers seat from my 74. Shell looks good but the rear seat mounts could be better.
If you are interested, I'm in Bay City, Mi 48706 and very high odds I'll make a day trip to the SDC meet in South Bend in early May.
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Upon further review - I used the DEI Titanium exhaust wrap. Should have looked first.
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I'll guess 440 as he probably runs higher boost than average. 300 or so hp without boost would be about 420 at 6 psi boost more or less.
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43 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Thanks. Is that something available most anywhere?
DEI exhaust wrap. As good as these wraps get and prices are reasonable. I just use Google for pricing and where to buy.
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Good morning Bill, glad to see you have the Avanti out and about.
Just curious, is it just the door panel removal you want or complete removal and repair.
If it's just the panel removal, here's a shot of my door panel installed on the 74. You can see the location of the screws that hold it in place. You also need to pull the c-clip from the door handle and remove the lock lever along with the grab handle.. There may be another screw around the arm rest but I can't remember. IAC good luck.
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I've got a pair out of my 74. They are in storage but Ill try to get a picture or two tomorrow.
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4 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Nice looking car! does that tape on the exhaust really help with heat?
Thanks
Yes it does. It really helps close to the starter and hydraulic cylinder.
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I have used Don's Silvertone stainless steel 2 1/4" setup on my 83 and built a custom 2 1/2" on my 74. The major impediments to going over 2 1/2" is the availability of larger outlet sizes on the exhaust manifold and the unique "kink" needed to get the drivers side exhaust pipe to clear everything near the steering. If you want larger looking exhaust just go to the larger exhaust extensions.
Here's my posting on the 74.
Control the sound with the mufflers. Currently the exhaust dumps down in front of the rear axle. Probably going to change that this year.
Looks like this currently
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Looks like a combination of old age and modest weld surface have caught up with the mount. I'd just put better metal on the bottom of the hat and weld the bracket in more completely. That one has held up over 50 years so the initial design, although not the best, worked.
I'd also weld the side of the bracket to the frame on the other side also. That should help resist the pulling forces from the bar.
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12 hours ago, mfg said:
Wow!...looks a bit complicated!.....Have you made provisions to vent hydrogen gas fumes from trunk area when battery is being charged?
Quick answer, yes, when I finish the trunk this year. Possibly complicated but it allows me power to some accessories when the main power cutout is open and protects the car from a short in the power wire running to the front along the frame.
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1 hour ago, Galvagni said:
Thanks for the ideas and photo. Did you maintain the solenoid in the engine compartment? I'm considering relocating the solenoid from the left fender apron to the truck also.
Since I replaced the original wire harness with a Painless performance "universal fit" harness all I would have to do is feed power to the fuse box and run a wire from the ignition switch back to the solenoid. The advantage that I see is that the heavy power line would only need to feed the starter. The one advantage of the Painless harness is that it has more circuit than I would ever use so I don't see a need for a power source in the engine compartment.
Your thoughts
This is a 74 so the solenoid is on the starter. Leaving the solenoid up front would allow a shorter wire to power the fuse box if it's located under the dash but in the trunk would look cleaner. I'd probably go for the trunk mount for starters (pun intended). I'd be sure to enclose and vent the battery also.
I used a generic 21 circuit GM style harness from Speedway Motors to rewire mine.
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The interweb says a starter can draw about 150 amps and as high as 200. My battery is trunk mounted but I don't recall wire size but memory thinks 1/0.
I have a 200 amp fuse in line at the battery.
Here's some thoughts on amperage, length and gauge. I'll let you folks figure out what's the proper size.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
This is the setup in my 74. The ground runs from the battery to the rear body mount then along the frame to a contact point by the engine and then grounded directly to the engine. Power runs through the disconnect, along the frame to the starter and feeds the main fusebox from there.
The additional fuse and ground points in the trunk allow me to provide 12 volts without running a mass of wires along the frame. The inline fuse is 200 amps.
Yup!! I'm a belt and suspenders guy.
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22 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Holes in the rear inner fenders to let out hot air from under the hood? Please explain that one.
The ones on my 74.
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I suspect that Ed is referring to the one done by Kount's Kustoms in Vegas recently. It was white, as he referenced, compared to your referenced black one.
https://www.facebook.com/HISTORYCountingCars/videos/alice-coopers-studebaker-avanti/354404193105119/
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Another vote for SEM vinyl dye. I used the spray cans to change the vinyl interior color on my 74.
It needs to be sprayed in thin coats but turns out nice.
I used a combination of gloss and satin on mine.
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1 hour ago, Jred said:
@wildfelr thanks. I’ll make the rounds tomorrow.
Myers is a valued supplier and I support out suppliers. But a word on springs, due to their length and weight, they are crazy expensive to ship. If you can pick them up from our suppliers that's the way to go.
When I was looking for replacement rear springs for my 74 I stopped at a local truck parts supplier A-1 Trucks and they had a listing for Avanti in their pile of printed catalogs.
I ordered through them and shipping was not an issue as they came in a truck load of other parts that had been ordered. Fit like the originals.
Avanti II 4-speed cars
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
According to some knowledgeable folks my 74 RQB-2123 was the second to last one and Skip Lackie (forum member) has the last Altman one produced.