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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83

  1. Excellent!! A precaution if it hasn't started in a few years. Pull the spark plugs and spray lube into the cylinders and roll it over. The cylinder walls are probably as dry as the Mohave currently. I recommend spray as a small amount of oil won't get the higher side of the cylinder if you pour it in. Then when you start it be sure it's outside.

    clipart-two-thumbs-up-happy-smiley-emoti

    Of course, we all know it didn't happen without pictures.

    Bob

  2. Is there a fuse for the fans? That would be the first place to look. If not that, either a bad ground connection in the line or the sender that turns them on might be bad.

    Good thoughts, I'd also look for a relay, which I'll bet you have, and check to see if you have power to it to activate the relay and also power to the fans through the relay.

    If the relay works then it's the sensor, which I believe just grounds the circuit to complete it. I would think there is a fuse for the relay activation circuit, in the fuse box, but I'll bet the fan power supply to the relay is a fusible link, possibly from the starter power lug.

    Bob

  3. Ron

    It sounds like you've got the situation under control. I'll post the under hood measurements when I set the 74 hood back on. With what you want to do, before I'd section the front fenders, I'd mount the engine and tranny and measure what you actually have. There are a lot of manifold and carb/injection options to increase clearance if necessary or possibly just an air cleaner change.

    The metal "U" shaped piece was welded to the bumper extension on the 74 to take up some height instead of a large stack of shims on the mounts near the radiator.

    To me, the worst looking thing on the newer Avanti's is the front side clearance lights. They are gone on mine but I don't recall if the 71 had them.

    Good luck, and post a few shots as you progress. I'm looking forward to the changes. If you need a picture or measurement, just ask.

    Avanti, Bob

  4. As you are well aware, the body is a single piece (essentially) and would need to come down as a single unit. The front fender and front body mount shims on my 74 would let it be dropped about 1 3/4 - 2" if the shims were removed and the metal "U" mounts were removed or shortened. The front hog trough (outboard) mounts present the first challenge. There's less than 3/4" of shimming so they would need to be pie-cut to lower them. The inner mounts seem to have about 1" of shimming so you could go that far.

    If I were to try what you are attempting, I'd be sure all the body mount bolts were lose so they could be removed and then support the front of the body with my engine hoist, pull all the body bolts except the rear center bolt. I'd pull the front body mount bolts first and use a piece of all-thread in the holes to keep the body centered on the frame and then pull the remaining bolts.

    Start slowly dropping the body to see how far it will drop. Look at interference points and see what you have. Then adjust as necessary by massaging high points until it sets as you would like, if possible. You'll need to raise and lower it several times so I'd use jackstands to support the body in the raised positon and use the engine hoist for re-positioning. As each car is somewhat different. you'll need to see how far you can go.

    My 83 has a 355 SBC, checking hood clearance is not that difficult if you need that data. Personally, if you want the front lower, do that first and then we can solve the other issues. I don't think wheel clearance would be a problem unless you cut coils to further lower the car but that also can be handled.

    Bob

  5. My 83 has 15 X 8 Mag rims. I like the 8" so I can run a wider tire. I'm running 15 X 8" Aluminum Rims with 3.5" BS on the front and 4.5" BS on the rear with excellent clearance with steelteck brakes on the front. Less back spacing on the rear gives the car a boy-racer look.

    P1010952-1.jpg

  6. The Gold 63 63R-2288 appears to be an R2 car. It's now hit $6K, it will be interesting how high it will go as it does need a lot of work, including paint, to bring it back to life.

    It is a very good start, if someone does their own work but between the engine and paint, but will suck up the price of a finished one quickly if the work is farmed out.

    Bob

  7. Ken

    I use photobucket on this forum. It seems whatever I load into photobucket it appears on the forum. It's possible that it's resized by them as I have put some fairly large megapixel photos on that site or maybe I'm just lucky too.

    Bob

  8. Here's what $21,500 will buy currently but not round headlights. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-2-door-/251989754582?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3aabc282d6&item=251989754582

    This one sold for $13,500 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Studebaker-R1-/271852387279?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3f4baa3bcf&item=271852387279&nma=true&si=Vphe%252BWy6Y%252F47ynEib0TvJ8jdieE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

    If you prowl around the internet you'll get more results. I like the description, seems honest and reasonably inclusive but paint and a new interior and dash will about double the price.

    I'll let you answer for yourself depending on where and how you want to go to buy one.

    Realistically, unless you like to do a lot of your own work, buy the best one you can afford.

    Good luck, Bob

  9. Steve, I think that's about all the money for an 83 for the reasons Gunslinger noted. I gave less that 1/2 that amount for my 83 in 2011. However, mine had 93K miles, a tired engine and a repaint. The bumpers were new and the interior is the upgraded Leather option on the plus side.

    IMHO, the 83 is very high on the quality and fit scale and I would use that as a selling point, my 74 is a kit car by comparison to the 83. The frame and Hog Trough condition will also be high on the list of questions by a knowledgeable buyer.

    If you don't have any luck at the meet, give Ebay a chance. In fact, I'd try Ebay ASAP as you never know what it could bring from an excited buyer. Just have a reserve that you can live with and post a ton of large, high quality pictures including the underside.

    Sounds like a very nice car and I hope you get your price or more. Bob

  10. Ron

    Thanks for the detailed posts on a very unique piece of history. I can't recall if you have posted on the Racing Studebaker website but those folks carry the torch for the performance history, some of which is on-going, of Studebaker and Avanti.

    If you haven't, I'll bet they would love to make your acquaintance and see a cut and paste of your comments here.

    Again, thanks very much. Bob

  11. Probably the most difficult to answer and polarizing question that can be asked on any specific marque forum. That said, I think the originality is gone unless you can locate the original drive train. These cars just don't bring big Three money unless exceptionally low mileage originals.

    What will make you happy? The most expensive will be replacing the R2/4-speed option. It can be done but they are expensive to build and the blower needs servicing on a regular basis.

    The least expensive is keeping the 327 and bolting on what you want. The T56 will bolt right up with a Centerforce flywheel made for the install. How do I know, my 74 has a 70 383 SBC/t56 installed using the OEM GM hydraulic clutch actuating assembly attached to the OEM four speed pedal. A hydraulic TO bearing is a even easier solution. I did mine with the 383 stroker to feed my Muscle Car angst from the 60's.

    If I were to do it with a modern driver in mind, I got to car-parts, Ebay, etc. and find a complete LS/T56 drivetrain and drop it in with computer et.al.

    Fit shouldn't be an issue, there are a couple of them around, and with your fabrication abilities, not a difficult fit. The beauty of the LS is the computer is a relatively straight forward reprogram that was about $85 the last time I checked.

    If you do want to go R2, check this forum for PackardV8, he is well known for his input and Stude V8 builds. I also think there are adapters to mate a 5-speed and possibly T56 to the R2.

    One last thought, the most difficult part of the install is the interference between the drivers exhaust manifold and the steering box. It can be solved Studebaker and Avanti Motors did it but just as a "heads up".

    BTW, welcome. Keep us in the loop. Bob

  12. Not sure what legitimate option means but you could mount a speaker and grill there and use a single rear speaker wired to a right and left front or rear circuit and turn the fader 100% to that circuit and listen to the radio. In that case true, but if you want to use the full function of the 80 radio it would need dual speakers front and rear, so in that case false.

    My guess is false

  13. No, they need to come from an Avanti or Studebaker supplier. Pretty low volume stuff. Nostalgic Motors will have them as well as Studebaker International and most other studebaker vendors. I'll include this discussion from the SDC forum. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?87256-p-s-hoses-vendors

    A inexpensive set of these can be helpful. http://www.craftsman.com/hand-tools-wrenches-crowfoot-wrench-sets/b-1305563

    Bob

  14. I have a set of leather seats from a 2007 Pontiac G6 that will go in my 74. I will need to adapt the mounts in the car but it's not that bad. If you want a back seat then it will ad a degree of difficulty. I have the back seat from the G6 but haven't tried it yet. I think it will be difficult to find a back seat that will replace the Avanti's due to the curves et al.

    I just took my tape measure to the local wrecking yard and looked for what looked good and then measured them. That's how I found the G6 ones.

    I'd suspect that there are any number of front seats from mid/full size cars that will work. The most important measurement is the height of the lower cushion. Don't worry about the installed height in the donor car but the final height with the seats mounts modified to fit the Avanti.

    BE sure to get the wiring harness and switches to install in the Avanti. I always like to buy the seats with all the controls on the seat. That usually makes the hookup much easier.

    Lastly, a lot of newer cars destructively lock the seat belts when the air bags inflate so be careful about buying seats with the belts installed on them. The wrecking yards around here will not sell a belt that's seperate from the seat. Libality they claim whether it works or not.

    Bob

  15. Glad it's back on the road and calling them is the appropriate response but I'll bet they'll just apologize to beat heck and change nothing. I would find a company with a better rep and just move on. I gave up thinking they care years ago. It's now just a business decision on my/their part.

    BTW, I had the same issue with pictures so I just post from photobucket. Works every time. Bob

  16. One of my car friends accused me of being "A Trophy Whore".

    Just for the record, I'm easy, but not cheap.

    So what's the problem with that? If you've got it, flaunt it. It's all good for the marque. Congrats :D Bob

  17. As has been described above, a good paint supplier has the technology to scan your paint and come up with a color match and type and level of metallic content.

    I will say, however, that in spite of all of the technology available, it might be almost impossible to actually match all of the components in the original. To wit, my 83 Avanti is a metallic silver and both my painter and the best paint guy at the supplier could get it close to perfect but in the sun there was just a hint of difference. We finally decided to just repaint the entire car.

    Brad may join in on this topic but if you are trying to just blend in sections, I'd recommend painting to a body division like a door line. If you are painting the whole car then it will be a perfect match.

    As an aside, when I really looked at my 83 closely and critically, I could see it had been partially painted twice after it left the factory and there was just a slight difference that was detectable after a close scrutiny. The average person walking by would probably see nothing or a slight difference that they would attribute to a shadow or cloud overhead but when you see it and know what it is it will drive you crazy.

    Bob

  18. I don't see how the hood extractors would be effective given the only opening in the cowl is sealed to the air cleaner,

    assuming you planned to put them on the cowl.

    Mounting them to the stock hood, from underneath, they would vent the hot air directly back to the induction system.

    Actually a good point and something I've been pondering for a while. The vents will either be just above the rear of the radiator or in the sides of the cowl portion of the hood. That flow should be much less than the total flow over the hood so dilution may be my friend.

    In any case, it deserves more consideration and I like the current look so well I may just ditch the whole heat extraction through the hood concept and vent it under the car. That's another reason I'm interested in MFG's idea. Early data says that the wheel wells may not be the best area to vent the heat but I don't need to slow down the hood finishing and paint to continue that project.

    Bob

  19. Awesome!....Relocate the battery to the trunk (if you haven't already) and you'll offset the additional hood weight.

    Battery's in the trunk as you suggested. The space where it was is perfect for the radiator over flow container.

    For posterity, I have the battery on the passengers side with a high amp fusible link in the positive feed line from the local West Marine and a mechanical shutoff.

    100_1565_zpsogmbkbko.jpg

    Bob

  20. I don't recall any tunnel ducting on either my 74 or 83 but if there is something I can put the 83 in the air and get a few pictures.

    I doubt the temperature had anything to do with the trans issue as most newer cars run 200+ deg and there's generally not a lot of venting underneath them either.

    As a thought, is the clutch dragging? Bob

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