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About Avanti83

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    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 01/08/1943

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    Bay City, Mi

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  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651

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  1. Put yourself in N&A's position, they wanted to sell cars. They needed an engine that fit, was proven to work in the chassis and fit with minimum modifications and cost. What would you chose? It had to be the SBC, why - cause it fit. Not only was it already engineered into the frame and attached to the existing drivetrain but also came from it's fiberglass brethren that by now was establishing a performance image of it's own. So the afterglow of the performance of the vette could also shine on the Avanti. All the other options needed to be fitted into the car and either didn't have enough cylinders to stir the soul of buyers or were just bigger, heavier and under powered compared to the Chevy. They had no other choice either engineering or financially wise.
  2. I'll take a flyer #2) 2 1/4".
  3. Pull the car outside, set inside as someone else puts a garden hose on various areas that may leak. Go slowly and you'll find it. I agree, start with the door seals.
  4. I will also add this thought as a separate post as it's the way I would go because it sounds like you want a dependable driver. The costs you are getting into are now in the range of dropping in a complete LS engine and trans combination. Those setups are plentiful in wrecking yards, easily dropped into Avanti's and reprogramming the ECM is straight forward for the ones from a few years back. But you say I'm modifying an original car, Yup! but you are doing that with the conversions you are planning. Pull the original engine and trans - store it for posterity and drive happily. I'll now go back into duck and cover mode.
  5. If you are planning both conversions, which are not inexpensive, but worthwhile - two thoughts. 1- Add a distributor that is controlled by the ECM, they are not plentiful for Studes but worth the investment. 2 - Try the 3:31 and then decide if you need to upgrade to a higher number one. If you decide to change, positraction is a good investment if you don't have it. What you have will be better with the 2004R installed, I'll bet.
  6. I tend to agree with Gary but there are times and circumstances that require one to do this so you need a "breathable" cover that won't trap moisture in theory. California Car Cover has a good reputation and I had one on my 39 Ford Coupe. It wasn't outside much but on those occasions it performed well.
  7. Try these folks http://www.restorationspecialties.net/ Personally, I'd just pop rivet them in, if they are the round covers I think you are referring too, but I have little need for authenticity with the vehicles.
  8. Studebaker International lists both manual and parts books.
  9. ( My other question is: Let's say I was building a Stude engine hoping for R3 power, and I wanted to modernize the timing, what would be the best way to go? ) Modify an electronic distributor to fit the R3 and pair up with a Holly, FAST or other EFI system that has a higher than 1 atm MAP sensor and let the EFI learn/control it's way to maximum performance. I know you can buy an electronic unit that will fit but I'd want the one that the EFI controls.
  10. Avanti83

    Avanti Window!

    Just to add to Brad's thoughts, I used the entire Nu-Relics power lift window system on my 74 Avanti with excellent success. Not inexpensive at $450 or so for the pair with switches and wiring but not much more than a total restoration of the old parts. Bought them from Bob Ziff.
  11. I suspect you know this because you have come this far but be sure that you have all the hinges and other parts, in good nick, that will effect fitment on the car and fitted prior to, hopefully prime, but most certainly paint as these bodies are pretty fragile toward nicks and scratches. I edged my doors/body openings with paint and rehung them prior to final spraying. the hood and trunk I assembled after painting. The hood was worry-some but I have enough overhead space and lifting capacity to set it in position alone. Please post pictures when you're done, Love to see pretty-pretty Avanti's
  12. My guess is the wire is to actuate the brake light and probably works by providing a ground if the slider is moved if one chamber in the cylinder is low on fluid. The light is also an indicator of the parking brake not being fully released according to the manual. When you pull the harness for the ECM you will find it is almost a stand alone harness. I don't remember what I did for the wire on the prop valve but I don't recall it being part of the ECM harness. I could be wrong as it's been a number of years. I could check but the 83 is in storage currently. I suspect that you are eliminating the ECM to get rid of the carb and dissy setup on the car. I replaced mine with a Holley FI setup and dissy and it runs well. Just remember you will need a different dissy if you replace the carb with a different one. Other than pulling a big arse snake out of the car, the job was pretty straight forward IIRC.
  13. Is the slop from worn holes/pins or just side to side movement. If the pins/holes are worn then new ones or larger pins. If it's side to side, try peening the rivets to tighten them up.
  14. Ken You and the Avanti have now come and now gone a long way. Congrats, Bob
  15. I haven't seen any follow up to the same query on the other forum. My offer of pictures et. al. still stands. sweetolbob
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