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About Avanti83

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    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 01/08/1943

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    Bay City, Mi

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  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651

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  1. The area above and behind the rear seats are mostly fiberglass with the fuel tank located there and a rear shelf that is plywood. That would make mounting the upper belt mount securely a challenge. You could possibly add a steel mounting point and heavier wood bracing under the rear shelf to provide enough strength for the mount using the rear seat belts from a modern sedan.
  2. Pulling the cam requires removing everything on top and the front of the engine. You probably have room to pull the cam but why not take the engine out, put it on an engine stand, check the bearing etc. and then reseal it with new gaskets at a minimum. Way easier to do out of the car. Also a great opportunity to add a different engine as the 305's are a "bit" anemic. JMO Lastly, pulling the engine out of an Avanti with the body on is not for the weak of heart, I've done a couple, so take advantage of this opportunity.
  3. Looks like a very nice start to a long friendship. Take a HF digital thermometer with you to check temperatures as the gauges may/may not be accurate. Same with oil pressure. Also be sure to check the tires age as radials are known to get sketchy as they get older so you can drive appropriately. The power trains in these cars are still the straight forward technology before computers so it should do well on the ride home. Welcome and congratulations on your car. Avanti!!
  4. Shouldn't the drivers side be the mirror image of the passengers? That should provide an example and part numbers you can track back if all else fails.
  5. As far as original, I can't help but in my 74 that has serious deviations from stock I used carpet from Menards with a tight pile.
  6. Bill's idea above is an excellent way to remove it by cutting it off near the grill. If you want it totally gone and return the car to the earlier style (no cowcatcher) you will need to remove it by unbolting it from the frame and pulling it out. You would then need to cut off the rear of the cowcatcher and put it back in place as it also serves as the front body support. The body will also need some repair to replace the fiberglass cut out to add the bumper. You could try to cut the end off the support with it mounted but it's tight right there. So you can see Bill's idea is mu
  7. Nope, even though I have a couple on site. The standard modern 15" steel wheel is about 20# so the non-radial wheel on the Avanti had to be less. Happy Easter - back at yah!
  8. I'll pick 16# #2
  9. Yup! Just unscrew it but put a 1/4" pipe plug in it's place as there's still some fuel in the tank and it smells bad and makes a mess.
  10. Searched my archives and found some more shots of the assembly. Here are a couple showing the upper mounting area. Disregard the shiny black bracket as it is mounted in the spot for the four speed linkage to activate the hydraulic linkage to the T56.
  11. You could talk to the usual suspects, Myers and Nostalgic, but I'd also suggest that you ask over on the SDC website as they also fit some later Studebaker's. There's a lot more of them and someone can tell you what years and models and possibly have a set available. You might also go through the Studebaker Vendors list and call a few that look promising. https://www.studebakervendors.com/ As an aside, if you have the original mounting assembly in place the pedals/arms consist of a rod mounted to one of the pedal arms that passes through a sleeve in the mounting bracket and the
  12. I suspect that it's the same as earlier models due to using the same frame etc. This is an earlier discussion with a picture of my 74 setup if you don't mind a bit of photobucket shading on it. I can probably dig up a few pictures if necessary. I would also suspect they are earlier origin assemblies but I do seem to recall that they have a larger pads than earlier. It might be easier to just match the metal pedal pad mount on the brake with the clutch pad mount. The clutch and brake use the same rubber pad. This should give you an idea of the orientation of the pedals
  13. Well done. You went a long way for lunch.
  14. Bill If all else fails, as you have the spout out you could shorten it and weld a 2" od pipe to it. That would also let you make a straight shot to the tank and use a standard 2" hose. Bob
  15. I used 2" automotive hose that is resistant to modern fuels from the internet. The original has a slight bend and I had to remove the body filler neck to install install the newer type hose. Check your diameter to be sure my CRS hasn't kicked in on the size.
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