fred88
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Posts posted by fred88
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Spacer looks good for what you need. Actually "tilts" the rear of the engine and kicks the trans to the right. Gives the left exhaust manifold clearance to the steering gear. Once in place you can adjust the trans linkage correctly and the kick down ( transmission pressure linkage) correctly.
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There is no real "fix", glass or plastic, air gets in there and any moisture condenses. Plastic may be more likely to show it quicker as surface temperature changes at a different rate than glass. My 63 has newer 64 up headlights, adapted during a prior owners collision repair. The chrome inner ring has a weep hole at the front near the glass. Might check to see if it's there and open. Especially since, most likely, there have been some repaints in the past. Won't stop all the fog from appearing, but will let it clear up faster. There is no way to "seal" out air getting in there, and the heat from the bulbs needs to vent somewhere.
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What is your goal--perfection or fixing? If your goal is to make it look better it can be repaired. Although getting an exact match in acrylic lacquer will be very difficult, it is not impossible, it is still produced and used in restorations. Although it may be illegal to use it in your state, it is available. Trying to spot in an area with a different type paint will not work, thus suggestions on repainting complete. The hardest part in spot blending the original acrylic lacquer, will be getting the color close enough to what is currently there, not what it was in 1969. Since the toners are not available to most local body shops anymore, making the original formula "match" your current color after years of fade would be tough. Can it be done-yes, would you be happy with it? As you can see here the material is available but a match by "name" won't be. Even with the actual color code ID it would still only be "close"-maybe. http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/AL-Acrylic-Laquer/?range=145%2C168%2C952#/?_=1&filter.custitem_item_attribute_color=Green&page=1
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1969-Cadillac-pg01.jpg
http://images.tcpglobal.com/chips/1968-Cadillac-pg01.jpg
You can go through the years before 1969 and try different makes to see if you can find your original
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this has, i'm sure, been around before, but anyway, i solved my problem of having to get on the brakes like "jack the bear" before my lites would function by replacing the common switch with one intended for a harley. these are low pressure switches that have the standard 1/8 npt necessary. the plug ins are different, but no big deal. i bought mine, drag specialties part #ds-272191, (made in poland, NOT china) for just over 10 bucks. works great!
Hope you bought a few just in case. Average life seems to be 1 year regardless of country of origin.
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Sounds like linkage adjustment is in order, also may have to remove the console top to readjust the neutral switch and reverse switch, and check the mount holes in the shifter, make sure they haven't torn the fiberglass and it's mounted correct to allow the stick enough motion in the selector slot to engage it. As to the stalling--remove your air cleaner, in the very top back of the secondaries, you'll see a bimetal strip if that is bad and doesn't unseat when hot it goes lean and stalls part 1558458 thermostatic valve.
PS There is a test in the manual somewhere, but as I remember it requires you to get the engine warmed up and pushing it closed by finger pressure on the button end to set the idle speed, then releasing it the engine should speed up, or something like that, check the fuel section of the workshop manual-I think in the carburetor rebuild section.
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I especially like the "real" oval mufflers-are they from him also, or did you source them yourself???
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Thanks guys!
I will be ordering one from Australia and having it mailed to Illinois. The irony in this is thick!
Yes it is, of course it will only fit on the left frame rail of RHD Avantis
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Thinking out loud, is there some type of thin strip of adhesive rubber or foam type material that you could attach to the inner frame of the window to provide a seal that way.
pb
Well, the seal is glued to a stainless inner trim, then the assembly is sealed to the body If you space the seal from the frame you could possibly get a better seal, but risk destroying the seal you have to do it--and there are no new replacements being made. The problem is the hinges at the front don't cause any compression as the glass rotates, it's up the rubber to conform and on the 63 seal (which is not the same as the 64 even though there is no part number difference) the latch area compresses and the seal outer edge moves on the body whenever you open and close it. Charlie--you have a moon roof and thus a II--you have the 64 up design that was carried on through to the end of the Avanti II and a car that was more thoughtfully assembled in the first place.. The 63 is a one year only design on most round headlight cars, with some transition 64s getting the new design. My Dad's was a transition 64 car with everything but the 1/4 glass latches, and my 63 has the originals, hinges bent slightly, the link bent slightly and seals pretty well--better than the front window to B pillar seal.
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The block is essentially the same since 1950s when it was a 224, 232, 259, when the oil fill pipe was bolted on there, a pipe sticking straight up and a cap on it. Just a cover plate, small gasket underneath it and a hole.
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Chevy hot start problems are very common. Google Ford solenoid, there are several drawings showing how to wire a Ford generic solenoid mounted on your fender apron, to the GM starter to cure it--cheap $20.00 plus an extra battery cable, a 2" piece of 10 gauge wire as a shunt and two wires taken off the GM starter and run instead to the Ford solenoid. Problem solved.
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Due to multiple small thin extra seals, stiffening block and other goodies, molded into the Avanti rubber, nothing else will work right. Spent 2 years finding the two I have, since mine are rotted and partial painted from many prior repaints poorly done. You don't want to know what it cost me. Maybe you can talk the Aussie Stude guys into manufacturing some new ones, nobody here sees any profit in it.
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Sorry, but wind noise is about all those seals are good for, if that. They leaked in 63, the 64 tried a slightly different latch, it leaks too. You can "massage" the link on the 63 to make it close a little tighter, but if you mess it up, getting a replacement link for a 63 is tough, Plenty of 64 ups, but you'll need to replace all the pieces and rivet the glass side pivot to the glass frame after pulling it off the glass. Me --I let it leak. If my memory serves me right, my Dad kept a towel in his Avanti, to wipe up the water during rain storms, but then my 63 GT did too.
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My guess if you have NO headlamps at all, circuit breaker with the olive green wire with black tracer at one end and black only at the other-no juice to circuit without it. Then check for juice at switch on header at the olive green with black tracer post. Once you have power there, then to the dimmer switch on the floor. No head lamp relays on 63 Avanti. Remember white is ground on these cars not black like newer ones. Good Luck, it doesn't hurt to check grounds (white wires) while you are tracing, but if you have park lamps they share the ground with the headlight in the bundle. If it is the breaker, watch it doesn't go quickly again. Pull all the H/L plugs check for corrosion and moisture, try to find where the overload is occurring.
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A standard glass repair of the cracks will suffice if they bother you. The plate under the fiberglass is attached to the metal frame surrounding the hood and won't affect the hood use. Most likely from over extension of hinge, flexing the glass overlay of the metal framework-purely cosmetic.
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The 64 came with R12 not 134A, As such you should visit a A/C specialty shop, to make sure the hoses have been changed over at some time. Then it should be evacuated and recharged either with R12 (very expensive) if it is still "stock", or 134 after hoses, drier and orifice change, system completely flushed of old oil. Not a do it yourself project.
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Yes Studebaker used the same Dana 44 in most every car, later some 27s in the Lark. The perches will be correct for your Avanti but will need to add traction bar (torsion bars per Studebaker) brackets. SI sells brackets, but don't know if they match the originals, and will need to be welded on the housing. They also list new bars if needed. If you can't find one in CA I'd be surprised. I see one in a EBay listing for a whole tree damaged Avanti currently for sale in San Mateo as an extra part being thrown in with the sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231609495606?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Just my 2 cents, re the exhaust system on OEM 63 Avantis. There was a "quiet" system that was optional and required for NY sold Avantis. It had a cross over ( H pipe) and two resonators. It was as quiet as any other 60s car. It seams the current aftermarket only makes the straight through system, but I'm sure Silverstone might be able to add this to their pipes before shipping, and add a small resonator area to the rearmost pipes.
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Are you attempting a spot refinish, panel refinish or overall refinish. No modern non-acrylic lacquer, will match regardless of formula. The carriers in modern paint are different and even the same base coat applied with a different brand clear will not look "right" and appear different from each other. If you are just spot painting, a blendable acrylic lacquer should be available on-line.used all the codes I could find on the list but my Dupont and SW dealers couldn't find any matches. Any leads on a current code?
TIA
Richard
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Yikes,yikes and more yikes. Brad, for those of us who know your work, we know you are meticulous and your work outstanding. I'm replacing mine from the outside only, as I can't risk taking the 1/4 glass out, as the seals are long time NLA and the interior headliner/sail panel material is original and marginal so best left alone if possible. My only question is how do you get rid of the rattles from the old pal nuts moving around in the 1/4 panel?
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As said, todays fuels "boil" more easily, including when parked in a garage. The fuel systems on the original car were "open" and vented thru a rubber tube of the top of the tank and into the inner quarter, and down to the bottom of the car. The hose rots, especially with alcohol in the fuel, and the odor increases as the area for the vapor to release to the air increases. Fix? I've seen the addition of an evaporative emissions canister and purge valve added on some older cars, that and new fuel lines metal and rubber (fuel Injection grade rubber) will minimize the smell.
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As said, a little vague to warrant a diagnosis, but start with the noise as "valve clatter", pull the rocker covers and check for oil on the rocker tips, if there adjust valve lash. If there after lash adjustment, get a wood dowel, hold against engine and against ear in different spots to try and locate the source. If possible hold against the timing cover, if it seems to be coming from there check that fuel pump mounting bolts are tight (mine likes to loosen up) sounds like a tappet noise as the lever starts to slap the fuel pump cam. Having good oil pressure at the gage means little if a passage has clogged in the crank and the bearings are starving for oil. Pressure is being "read" off the oil passage in the right head near the oil pump main outlet. rest of motor could be staving for oil.
I'd try the Seafoam treatment or if your feeling daring, pull the air inlet if supercharged, or the air cleaner. Get an old Windex spray bottle, fill with plain water, and while running at a fast idle (1200 RPM +/-) spray the water over the primaries till it stalls. Let sit, restart and repeat. Look for a lot of black carbon coming out exhaust along with a white cloud of water vapor. Works as well as Seafoam, just cheaper.
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has anyone tried these folks to see if they would be bothered to make new seals?
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I for one. would be willing to pay more, if they were high quality, maybe up to $125.00 each considering inflation since SI last had any to sell.
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Anyone out there have any measurements of the upper body of an Avanti? I am especially interested in the A pillar to A pillar distances and the A pillar to B pillar measurements. My right door doesn't fit right, too little distance to the W/S pillar for a weather strip to fit, and ran out of adjustments on glass and vent frame movement to get enough room for the rubber, even with the door almost hitting the B pillar. I believe this car was hit and repaired on the right side or right front, as the hood doesn't fit right at the rear corner/cowl top panel. Before starting to peel the fender and apron to get at the pillar to pull it, a set of measurements to go by, would be great. The left door fits "okay" but not great (a little low front and back) so I'm afraid to just use the opening measurement from that side, which would probably be close but no guaranty.
borg warner to th350
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by fred88
Because the 350 isn't any stronger than the 700, the 400 is, but not by much. If you plan on actually driving your car, not just racing it, an overdrive makes more sense. You can use a higher ratio rear for your burn outs, and drive down the freeway without running your expensive to replace engine at 4000 RPM all the time. Since you have an Avanti, I think you would be better off with a 200 built to your needs, no clearance issues, no fiberglass tunnel modifications. Remember to check your rear end max torque ratings also. Nothing worse than spinning the splines off an axle--if you're still running the old Dana 44 tapered axle rear, that only has 19 spline axles and will probably shear off a hub pretty easy at that HP range. Fiberglass doesn't do well with a rear wheel going missing or coming off at 90.