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  • My Avanti
    1963 63R1348

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  1. Replace it with a dual M.C. and be done with it..................not to mention a whole lot safer. Your car, your money. JB
  2. Do you have the two AC controls, Temp and fan speed, that you would sell? Thanks John
  3. Ron, it has been many years since I worked on my gas tank, and I don't recall exactly where on the top of the tank the vent was located, but I do recall that when it came out of the sailpanel ir exited through the floor not into the wheel well. FYI.......my car is #1348. I replaced that vent tube, up into and out of the sail panel. Not an easy job , but it can be done. Things to check.........Is the sender tight to the tank? It could be the source of vapors. Check the fitting and hose on the bottom of the tank for any dampness or leaks. Same with the return line. Check for cracked welds or soldering Gunslinger already mentioned the filler pipe connection.
  4. Gunslinger, I'll take the AC Temp Switch for $30.00 Please tell me how you want to be paid. John 502 773 05 nine two
  5. Call this number in Little Rock 501 687 7772 he has a Steering Wheel and column , plus other parts. In the photos I was sent, the wheel looks to me to have separated at the "rings" on either side. Take a close look. Good luck, John
  6. I don't believe that any of these "kits" address the Alternator bracket that mounts to the York Style compressor on an Avanti.
  7. I received a text message from the fella that did this conversion. The core he used is from an '86 Bronco. The Inlet/Outlet Tanks were swapped. He was quick to point out that the soldering of the Avanti Inlet/Outlet tank onto the Bronco core is a delicate procedure best done with a small torch .................. and don't overheat it. John
  8. It would be appreciated if he calls with the information 50277305ninetwo
  9. Dan, can you tell us exactly what you purchased, Make , Year, Price etc., and what modifications, if any, you had to do, to make it work in your Avanti Thanks John
  10. Neil called me yesterday. All is good Thanks John
  11. Anyone know Neil Grant from Canada? Or how to contact him? I lent him a 1/4 window frame some time ago, as he was working on getting new rubber seals made.It appears that the 1/4 window seal project is dead, and I need to get the frame returned. No response to E-mails I've sent. Any help will be appreciated. John Brissette Louisville Kentucky
  12. Either from the top as Ron said, or from the bottom, the bar is placed so as to put pressure on the pulley assembly and thus tighten the belt.I have a lift so it makes this easier to do. But my "helper", takes the long bar and places it so that he can leverage it on something and thereby take the slack out of the belt. Get a bar about 2 1/2 feet long and place it in various positions, top or bottom, to determine what will work for you. It is not that difficult, but I've never been able to do it alone. John
  13. Yes. Loosen the idler pulley, slide it up and remove the belt. I find that tightening the pulley is somewhat difficult from the "top". I do it from below, and have a second set of hands apply pressure with a long bar, as I tighten the pulley. The space in front of the idler pulley is very limited as I recall, and getting a wrench or socket in there is "tight". I welded a socket to a piece of pipe and it easily goes on to the bolt in the front of the pulley. John
  14. My car has a number stamped on the X cross member, but the car has been put up for the winter, so I can't easily confirm what numbers are there. IF, you are looking for the serial number on the frame, I found mine on the cross member where the top of the shocks mount. It is very faintly stamped , but it can be read.I have the advantage of owing this car for 46 years and it has always been garage kept, and only driven in dry weather, thus no rust on the frame. As slight a stamping as there is, I can imagine that it could be very difficult to see it on a car with a rusty frame.Should I have to move the car that is under the Avanti I'll get a photo of the number and post it. John
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