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Posts posted by BillyBob
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regnalbob - Just looked at Rock Auto. # RC1. Gives me RC11 when I search. RC11 does not appear to have a wire connector.
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Many thanks - I appreciate the help!
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The wire on my '63 R1 alternator condenser came loose - what is a replacement, please?
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Good assumption. However, new rag joint comes without screw. It is a unique screw - no longer available.
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The 12-point screw on my '63 Avanti that secures the clamp at the rag joint on the steering column has seen better days. I understand it is not available. What do others do when substituting the screw? Ref.: Illustration no. 1301-7, p/n 1557280. Thanks, Bill
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regnalbob, illustration 2101-168 is p/n 526600X9. Illustration 2101-76, according to the Parts Catalog is p/n 526600X1. In my Parts Catalog, dated July 1963, these are detailed on pages 152 (2101-76) and 153 (2101-168). Question: do either of your Avantis have a/c and is clip (illustration 2101-76, p/n 195407) used on the heater hoses at the front of the right-hand rocker cover?
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Thank you, regnalbob. My reference is to 2101-76, not 2101-168, in the Plate you attached. Thank you for your interest. I believe the "lacer" (spacer? - apparent typo) is a flat washer.
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64 studeavanti: yes, a/c and heater only cars have different heater hose routing. This is covered in detail in the Authenticity Manual, pages B-8 (a/c) and B-18&19 (heater only).
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Hey, Brad - I want what you have (that clamp)!! What does clip, lacer (spacer?), p/n 526600X1 look like?
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Innocently enough, I began with repair (replacement) of a leaking heater core. A fun job - perhaps for someone else! One who has little interest in removing the heater core and blower assembly ever again, I thought a rebuild of the 57-year old blower motor might be appropriate. So far, so good. While I'm assembling parts, I thought it might be appropriate to take a look at heater hose routing. We all(?) know the Workshop and Parts Manual illustrations are guidelines and best to follow the illustration reference numbers for part numbers. Here's what I've found, Parts Manual Plate 21-1 seems to show formed heater hoses at both engine connections and straight nipples connecting to each of the 2 engine connections. The nipple (item 2101-90, p/n 1691714) closest to the motor center line (almost directly under the radiator surge tank, connecting to the water pump) - on my car - has a 90 degree bend, the other being a straight nipple (item 2101-89, p/n 1548305). I believe the Parts Manual is incorrect in specifying a formed hose (item 2101-74, p/n 1548497X18), connecting to the engine/water pump. The other hose, item 2101-72 (p/n 1548497X3), I believe to be correct when listed as a formed hose.
My car is missing item 2101-76, clip (p/n 195407 and its mate - clip, lacer, p/n 526600X1).
Simply asked, who has an image/photo of heater hose routing using this clip & clip, lacer that they could share?
See attached files for illustration & part numbers.
Thanks, Bill
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It is possible to remove heater core/blower housing without removing/loosening a/c, loosening I/P, loosening console - I did it! The 3 most important tools were 1) coolant catch basin, 2) cork to plug lower heater core tube, and 3) flat tire iron (most critical tool for gentle encouragement of clearing housing assembly from lower edge of I/P). Watch out for pinching blower motor wires on removal and routing of temp control cable on reinstall.Now, considering rebuild of blower motor. Do not want to go through this again! FYI: Workshop Manual grossly understates removal. Told, I am, Studebaker Corporation allowed 1.0 hour for heater core R&R.
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Thanks to all - assembly is loose; heater hoses disconnected. Helped removing washers on engine side of dash panel.. Pushed blower motor wires thru dash panel - hoping they don't get cut as assembly is removed. Yes, having difficulty getting heater core/blower housing past a/c lines. Taking a break for the night... Stay tuned.
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Pretty certain I have a leaking heater core. Workshop manual makes removal & installation sound easy enough - what tricks do I need to know? Thanks in advance.... Bill
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Thanks, Brad! Springs ordered.
What Brand and p/n do you use for shocks? Bill
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Jack, to clarify - ideally there should be a straight line (180 degrees) between the trans output shaft and the pinion angle. Correct?
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...there is hope! Let's hope my "driveline shop" understands this!! Thanks!
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In the quiet of fall, I'm considering replacing the rear springs on my '63 (now arcing down at both ends, both sides). Eaton Detroit Spring can supply 5 or 6 leaf springs (standard or HD, I presume) in 3-4 weeks. Some have told me in replacing the springs I "may" run into a driveline angle issue, resulting in vibration. Further, I am told, when Studebaker would receive a spring shipment of 50 or so units they would road test to determine what size shims would need to be placed where to settle driveline angle/alignment on that lot of springs/vehicles and this the number of shims and shim sizes could vary considerably from one lot to another.
Suspect my 57 year-old shocks are original and I'd replace at the same time.
Comments, please... Thanks!
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I understand the new spinner is of different design/construction. Call Real Rodders 805.402.2212 for details. Am also under impression there's a Canadian source. Have no details.
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Looking for replacement shifter boot for manual trans. Was given '65-'72 Buick Skylark, 4 speed as comparable. Bought RP33-Z from Metro Moulded Parts. Base diameter appears too large (5.5 inch O.D.) and hole for shaft is rectangular. At minimum, I'd like one for a round shaft. Experience of others?
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Yesterday, June 22, 2020, I received an update from Real Rodders on their replica Halibrand wheels for Avanti/Studebaker. There is Good News! A contract for a tooling supplier/manufacturer has been signed with several details pending finalization. There is Better News!! The updated Real Rodder spinners will be low-pressure cast and not sand cast as were earlier replicas. What does this mean? A high quality casting without any porosity, much higher detail and show polish finish and a much stronger part. Equal in quality to the finished wheels. Interested? Call Real Rodders at 805.402.2212. 50 sets are planned for production with no guarantee for additional runs. My place in the queue is set.
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JLBKY, very helpful - thank you very much! You have preserved well the trunk carpeting! Suspect exterior, mechanicals, interior are similar.
If possible, a close-up of the bracket(s) holding up the fuel tank/seat back carpet would be helpful. I note there are screws used at the top of this piece - I presume they were there when purchased. Yes?
I also see a screw at the top of the cover over the trunk latch. Also, as purchased/built to the best of your knowledge?
Good move on the inertia switch. Why an electric fuel pump?
...hard to believe a grown man can get so excited about a 57 year-old car!
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if helpful, photos/images can also be sent to wckrueger@yahoo.com
I "believe" carpeting changed "sometime" during Studebaker's short run of Avanti....Stay Tuned.
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63R1388 - yes, please send what images you can. Most appreciate your help & cooperation! Bill
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JLBKY (John), thanks for input. Yes, your "tip" (thought I recognized the AOAI "Handle") on Home Depot was spot on - thanks! And, yes(!) I'd like some photos. Understand "weather" may get in the way of taking - that's OK, I plan to be around awhile. I'm particularly interested in knowing if you have all 11 pieces in your Avanti that I've identified. Particular photos of interest are,
- the brackets that hold up Item 1 in my sketch - both LH & RH sides if possible; interested in knowing how and where attached
- how Item 2 is installed (dressed) around the antenna
- does Item 9 have the hole for emergency release from someone locked inside the trunk (assumes that person took a screw driver with him!)
- photos showing that Items 6 & 7 are glued to the walls of the spare tire well
...and any other photos you think might be helpful.
R2W55, glad you appreciate the info. The $70 piece you ordered - was it one piece to cover both sides? You are a brave person to take on the challenge of sanding and painting the inside surfaces of the quarter panels! I'd be stiff and sore about 5 minutes into the job! I wish you well! I believe your "equivalent" of Item 9 may be a molded plastic piece. I once had a '77 but wasn't into much more than getting it to run at the time. Long ago sold.
Bill
Brake Lamp Fuse
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
The 1963 Avanti Workshop Manual specifies an SAE 6 fuse for the brake lamps. I'm not doing well on a conversion.
Could AWG-6 be an acceptable substitute?
Thanks...