silverstude
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Posts posted by silverstude
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On 4/7/2018 at 11:26 AM, mfg said:
RQB3654?....WOW!..my own '83 Avanti RQB3655 followed your's down the production line!!
Was it on a Monday? ?
Send me a picture...
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The door handle lock spring looks like an Omega symbol. The handle shaft has 2 slits cut in the sides for the spring to slide through. The slits should be parallel with the handle, so using the tool, it's either down from top or up from under the handle
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one jack on the axle pot, the other on the center pin of the front crossmember. Once up, place jack stands at the frame points mentioned above
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Check out the pertinent topics on this link
http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1g.html#PowerWindows
Your motors could probably use a fresh shot of grease in the gears, as well as the rollers on the regulator/ sliding parts. They draw an awful lot of current and can cook themselves quickly if let to strain too often.
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Ja! Autometer...
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Many cars have not been listed in any recent inventory or club rosters for the entire time of their existence. Send more pics when you can.
thx
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Did you get the serial number?
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Yep,
Dorman "Help Kiosk" part #31000. It appears to be what is needed.
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Here's a trick learned a long time ago.. In the mid 80's when personal computers were coming of age, there were a ton of ancillary pieces being produced. One was a screen filter for 7" CRT's. They fit inside the square headlight bezel perfectly..
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Golde Sunroof
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Here's one on Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/i/192358276720?chn=ps (B/W R281P) Matches the new one I've had on my shelf for the past 30 years
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Camaro
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Here is a new drawing that was offered to me to post / Might be of some help
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Where did you get the ownership info?
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I believe Jon Myers acquired that engine around 1999
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Depends on what you want to do to the body. I did mine in a garage by initially building pylons under the trough corners, raised the car enough to unbolt the chassis and lowered it to the floor. Next was to insert a couple 4x4 posts between pylons under the firewall and another at the rear, then continued to raise the pylons till the chassis could be rolled out from underneath. Was a bit labor intensive jumping around shimming the pylons little by little, but method was safe and secure. The car was fully intact body-wise when this was done. If you need to work on the troughs, this would not be the way to do it.
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To insure the pistons and pads are parallel with the rotor...
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I have to agree that the DOT5 silicone fluid ( No matter how careful you are) will have microscopic bubbles suspended in solution and they will cannot and will not be bled out, causing less than a solid pedal. The better side of the argument in using this stuff is the long life of the components.
One other damning problem with the stuff is, never get it on an unpainted surface or it will get absorbed and migrate through the strata causing a parade of horrors with your paint.
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Well, 91's area a rare breed., but the drive train/chassis is 91 Caprice(?).. fuel injected, etc The body and interior is a lot of sausage from everyone else.
You might run thru some of these notes on earlier cars. There has to be some similarity. I can only archive things that others tell me about.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1f.html#91av
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Bob Lucarrel offered me that car in 1997. It was still in the Youngstown factory along with a red one... the last 2
Questions about avanti
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
How about some pictures