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silverstude

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Posts posted by silverstude

  1.  

     

    I emailed Lowell McGann about that wiring manual and he replied that he will look for any extras he may have, but the one original, most likely went with the car when he sold it.  That would have taken a lot of time/effort to compile and made a great contribution.

  2.  

    Since owning my 70 with the GM350 and after replacing with the dart head(ed) Jasper (stage 2)......  to get to and replace plugs 5/7 on the drivers side, I have to use a creeper and slide under  from the passenger side to reach up and have some ease in getting them out/in.  The rest of the plugs on the Pside can easily be addessed without issue, as are the 1/3 plugs on the Dside 

  3.  

    Two years ago, I pulled and reconditioned my tank.  There are 2 baffles giving three compartments, the center one being largest . The  sender placement hole being located in the middle  compartment, but not centered.  It's closer to the filler tube.  If you have the tank out, then  installing the sender ( with the filler on your right) with the float at 6 o clock and rotating the sender so the float would be around 7:30 to 8 o clock, would give you the most action.  If you have the old float, emulate any bend it had.    If installing a new float, you can trim the action lever as short as you want, but if the float is submerged on full tank,  the gauge will show full for a long time after a refill

     

    Her's a pic of the tank

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Gastank/Avantigastank/avgastank.html

     

  4.  

    You can drill holes in the brass floats, inject some High Density foam inside and solder the holes shut.  Brad's idea is pretty good, so it must work...  I had lined up a task of getting a pair of Holley or whoever  nitrophyl floats and change the mounting hardware to match the Edelbrock, but never got around to doing it.   It's really odd that Edelbrock does NOT make nitrophyl floats...

  5.  

    I would try a listing for the GM305 engine in a Camaro of that year.  Be aware there are versions of the 305 that use a "long" water pump which would change the vertical profile of the belt drive. The Avanti AFAIK does not use a long water pump.   If you have some success, post the belt numbers here so they can be logged and for future reference.  Thx

  6.  

    Hope you have a shop manual handy.    There are shims included in the kingpin rebuild kit. You also have the ones installed in your suspension now.   The shims are used to adjust the  thrust bearing clearance, which if is not correct will grind the bearings into dust.

  7. 14 hours ago, Stormy said:

    My 63 Avanti has a lug on the rear that just spins, so a nut cannot be installed.  How does one fix this ?

    You remove the drum with a HUB puller after loosening/removing  the large axle nut and reversing it on the axle, spinning it so the castling is inward and the flat end is even with the threaded end ( this will prevent the axle from spreading).  The hub puller will tightly mount on three lugs.  The puller threaded center pin is mounted so the point is in the center of the axle.  You tighten the threaded pin as much as you can, into the axle .... and I mean TIGHT.  Assure that the threaded pin and the axle are on the same plane, so the shock travels straight thru the axle.   Then,  using a 3 or 5 lb sledge, smack the head of the threaded pin.  Maybe tighten more/ smack more.  You might have to leave it an hour or two and try again.  Using heat may help but is somewhat dangerous around fiberglass, brake fluids, etc.  The hub is tightened to the axle using an interference fit, at 170Ft/lbs of torque when assembled. To ease this removal, some say to loosen the axle nut a turn and then drive the car around the block.  It may work, but???  I've only used the shop manual method above.

    The outer axle has an axle/hub has a woodruff key that you can see when you remove the axle nut and washer.  Remember the orientation of the key...small end goes in.  Also of great importance is that you use NO lubricant on any part of the axle or hub. Clean them if necessary with a good Brake Cleaner, dry them well, dry them well, dry them well.  Any oil can make the assembly easier, but will result in splitting the hub.

     The lugs themselves are fitted into the hub from the rear and pass through the drum, the the lug is swedged onto the drum, which means there's a small amount of lug material pinched to fix the lug in position.  You can use a file to grind away the outermost bit and that will defeat most of the swedge.  Then take a ball peen hammer and smack the bad lug to push it back thru the drum and hub.  Take it to a Parts store and see if they can replicate it.  In fact take everything as they may be able to refit the lug and swedge it on.  The threads are 1/2" by 20, I don't know the length of the original lugs.  If you find the new lug, without any help, then insert the lug in the rear of the drum thru the hub, Use the ball peen hammer with a piece of wood to buffer the blow and rap it unto its completely seated.  Alternatively use the lug nut with a washer  against the drum to pull it through.  On the outer side where the lug threads protrude, you may use a sharp center punch to jam some drum material against the lug to emulate a swedge or just leave the lug alone, as the other four are doing the same job and the new one can just go along for the ride.

    Not a difficult job and it will get you familiar with what's required to do a brake job..

  8. On 6/3/2018 at 12:21 PM, Ron Dame said:

    Gary, where can I find the service letter? Or the kit? Or see enough to make my own?

     

    The cooling kit was a lightweight ribbed hose set that routed from the transmission shifter area to the vent area under the intake grille at the windshield.  The hoses were attached to a pair of ~1" tubes that were fixed to the floor of the under grille vent area and these tubes had 'rain hats' on them.  I'm not sure if all early cars had these tubes as they were only used for the cooling issue.   There is no air control, so if the tubes were not attached, the intake air would dump right behind the dash.  Correctly routed, they dump into the area under the shifter quadrant.     It does make a difference to have these installed, as the shifter can get pretty hot and that heat radiates into the car.  However early cars may just have the flat floor of the vent to divert rain down into the hog troughs and no means to connect a hose.   No sure if the factory kit had the tubes to add if necessary

     

     

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