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Everything posted by silverstude

  1. Have you tried this reference? https://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Tech/Electrical/AEC/aec.html I carried this page for years before realizing who authored them. The 81 can't be too different
  2. Check with Dave Kinney https://endurancebuiltproducts.com
  3. You can try a heat gun to soften it, a putty knife to scrape it, but there's a risk of gouging the glass
  4. You can access the torque box bolts from the top by removing the sill plate and rubber mat and drilling a few 1.5-2.0" holes in the fiberglass. Use Kroil or PB Blaster on them from the top. Worth a try and beats hell out of drilling them out from underneath. Returning the sill plates and rubber conceals everything you've done.
  5. R series engines used Carter AFB's not WCFBs The jetting info you want in in here https://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p2g.html#R1R2
  6. Read this for booster replacements https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Brakes/Boosters/avantiboosters.html
  7. The entire Avanti article is on the front page of https://studebaker-info.org
  8. Who knew.. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/porsche-904-replica/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-11-18
  9. Yes, Toyota Crown used the exact same piston at 2.25". If you go that route, ask about the crossover pipes also as they may be Metric thread.
  10. If you have Turner Brakes maybe, but the 83 Avanti came from the factory with Studebaker Bendix/Dunlop Disk Brakes
  11. I haven't any interior photos that intimate, but it's entirely possible. I'm sure that since they were improving the engineering of the body, they had to think of that,
  12. I was trying to give him some idea of the way the latch worked. He sent me pics that clearly show the pivot spring, although they looked so rusty, one would think they would have broken with any exertion..
  13. I was looking at some of the many photos I have and must remark that up to early 89 (0420's) the latches were very similar to 63 and up, however on two 89's numbering in the 0458 and 0459, there's only ONE latch and it's right next to the wiper moor
  14. silverstude


    Where do you live?
  15. Nice video. Nice of you to do the video too. My 70 Avanti received the same treatment a number of years ago. The one difference I noted was that the panel behind the rear seat was not only screwed on, but there was also a sealer on the edge under the screws. My guess was that it prevented fuel odors from entering the cabin. There was around 4 gallons of stale fuel in my tank and it was painstaking to get out. The rubber line at the tank drain at the fuel line was removed and a piece of ductile wire stuck into the opening to clear the way. Once the tank was out, I used a product from N
  16. Just saw this on the SDC Forum ( don't really know if it applies) https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/avanti-tail-light-assembly.c9668
  17. I had mine off the chassis, supported by four corners at the ends of the hog troughs. The seats were out and door panels off, but the glass and rest of the interior were still in. It was about 4 feet off the floor, sitting on two 6X6 timbers with a piece of carpet on each. I know I bumped into it occasionally while working on the chassis and it would move an inch or so. You could even lift the nose with some effort. I'd estimate it around 700#
  18. Here's a section from the story of R-1384 - Has and LS engine and both trucks from a C4 'https://studebaker-info.org/AVDB1/R1000/63R1384/63R1384x1110/63r1384x1110.html
  19. I just received word that R-1165, R-1191 and a third body ( unknown tag) were all completely lost to the fires in the Santa Cruz mountains....
  20. Those tubes in the cowl should be raised off the floor an inch or so. They should also have "hats" over them that prevent water from getting into the area behind the dash, which would be disastrous. Any water entering the cowl runs off to the left or right and down the chute in the kick panel into the hog troughs. The cooling tubes are approx 1.5" ID and run from the underside of the cowl, down behind the A/C area and terminate in front of the shifter area to play cool air on the metal parts. They do help. Don't use corrugated tubing ( vacuum cleaner type) The smoother the inside
  21. I'd think that black female (likely +12) goes to the spade on the thermocouple, since that has to sense the temp which turns on/off the compressor. The fan switch below may have it's own power source, but it appears that the thermocouple has a short jumper to the white rheostat.
  22. Get or make a couple flat, tapered pointy tools from a hardwood. Carve down some wooden spoons, etc. You can work the gasket over the flange using these types of tools and it won't hurt the gasket. I put both the front and rear glass in, using this type of assist.
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