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About Ntenna

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  • My Avanti
    1963 63R-1454

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  1. Sounds good, Brad. Planning on the same. When I cut the vertical run and pulled the horizontal vent line out, I found the copper pipe was cut too long at the factory, and the flex line going up into the 1/4 panel was crimped shut against the copper pipe. Been folded over since new. Plus now cracked at the top of the U and tank coupler. If anyone has issues with the tank spitting back while fueling, there's the problem. This one did, and it will hopefully now do it less or not at all. Pictures coming.
  2. Avanti production began almost 60 years ago. Since then cars have received total restoration, been totaled and everything in-between. If you haven't checked your fuel lines recently, look at these photos. This is not only the main tank feed over the axle, but the return and vent hoses behind the rear seat. They pretty much tell the story. Getting that vent line upper U-turn out and replaced is really fun. And this is a good running, show-level R-2. A failed pump diaphragm started me replacing everything. IMG_1661.MOV
  3. There must be two out there somewhere! πŸ˜‰
  4. Hi, Rob - if you would be willing to part with one, please pm me off forum at ntenna@me.com. I will still have a fairly good one which can be used for repro or plated. Thank you, John H.
  5. Ntenna


    Thanks Jim. Very good to know. J
  6. Ntenna


    Thanks Ed. That's what I used 17 years ago on our '57 Hawk building an R2 Avanti clone engine (actually a '63 Lark Daytona block, late model Paxton 6-7 pounds, AFB, cast headers). It has been dry all these years and 25,000-some miles. Looking at the gaps from the side, I'm very sure they used the thin head gaskets on this Avanti. Not my rebuild; we've all been there. Like you, I hate to pull it down, but I'm not too keen on coolant block sealer, either. The drip from the coolant leak is about once every 30 seconds cold, about every 10 seconds hot. This block was hot-tanked in 2017; I have the
  7. Consider an induction heater as an option to torch heat. They are available from multiple tool sources. Combined with ATF/acetone mix, you have the best chance at success.
  8. R-2 - Dealing with slow oil leak between block and right cylinder head at rear about 4" from rear of head just above valley cover. Leaking at head gasket. Same but slow coolant leak on left side at head gasket just below last exhaust outlet, very slow drip on starter. Head bolt torque checked and good.. Engine rebuilt 2017, runs strong, cylinders within 7 pounds and no signs of water in oil or exhaust in coolant. So I am thinking head gasket external seal issues. I see no cracks. What do you all think, before I pull the heads and replace the gaskets. Than
  9. Looking to get TwinTraction rear axle tags completed. Have the two smaller tags, but missing the vertical positraction tag which bolts between to two center right side cover bolts. Also need a horn bar in either good or plate-able condition, steering wheel horn contact ring, springs, screws and insulators. Anyone? PM welcome. Thanks, John H.
  10. Here's what keeps that tank steady in our R-2. Not saying this is "original" but it is an almost daily driver, and has no shakes.
  11. Contacted Mr. Williams, who still has the car, and the original package with doc is headed his way. Passed it forward πŸ‘
  12. Brad - β€œ your results may vary”- LOL! Appreciate this starting point very much, though! J
  13. Thanks Jack. Some good thoughts - and I will check those intake gaskets! J
  14. If anybody is interested, the rest of the story is that all of the jets and metering rods have been changed in our R-2, in addition to being installed with the jets in opposite locations. Jon Myer is sending the stock parts and I will spend some time checking performance. Probably not the first Carter put together backwards. J
  15. Got what I need on steps leaner or richer from Bob's site. Good resource. AFB, AFB, AFB.....
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