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About Zedman

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    AOAI Forum Member

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  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Studebakers Competitive Ballroom Dance

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  • My Avanti
    1981 RQB 3269

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  1. Well done Brad- You are obviously well practised at this task..... any advice noteworthy?
  2. No, it wouldn't be the car you' described. My car was advertised in early 2015 or possibly late 2014 with a lot of really good photos. It was located in Roseville, Sacramento California. The advertised price was $6000 USD and nobody would bite on it because the ad stated frame was shot over the rear axle and beyond and the radiator needed replacing (had a hole too big to fix) . The owner inherited it and parked it for 17 years. He did nothing else to it and was keeping it out of sentimentality. I secured the car for a significantly lower sum and my agent shipped it off to a freight forwarder in Long Beach- thence on to Australia. Since the prices for Avanti II's has gone nuts since then I consider myself fortunate to have gotten this one irrespective of the task I have at hand. It is my humble belief that all Avantis of whatever iteration, are likely to be extremely valuable eventually.
  3. Hi Stacey- I started the thread that Bill was quoting. One of my specific questions - hitherto unanswered by anyone- was what kind of welding procedure and/or rods should we use when weldinga a Studebaker frame. Can you elucidate on that score please?
  4. Yep, that fits my mentality fairly well- The vendor's father owned it in NJ. When his dad died, the vendor inherited it and drove it across the US to Sacramento and parked it for 17 years. Whilst the car was well sheltered and kept cocooned, the tin worms continued their work. I swear, the interior still smells new. tragic isn't it....?. I also have a 61 Hawk off its frame too, but at least it isn't Fibreglass.
  5. Hello all and thanks for your thoughts and advice. I did not mention this before but I have been presented with a time crunch- my body man has been given notice to vacate his premises at the end of his lease. We need to get this job done; period. On the subject of the engine I expected suggestions to get rid of the 305 but my priority is getting the car driveable with what it came with and the least expenditure. I may not even get the chance for a partial rebuild after all. For that reason the 305 is being retained and so will the exhaust. I expected the Torque Boxes would be a MIG prospect being thin materials and thanks for the advice on that score- I will pass it on. Interestingly, I was sent Stainless units by Classic Enterprises (and charged accordingly) despite actually specifying Mild steel. Stainless will be fine, but a bit overkill 'cos we don't salt our roads here in sunny Australia. I was actually hoping to be able to repair the chassis rails at the rear but the corrosion was awful (from the sellers photos) and I started looking for alternatives. as far as welding is concerned I am looking for advice apropos welding on the frame- can anybody give me any info on the nature of the steel there? I knew what I was in for when I bought this car and It was a dead-set bargain even considering the crappy frame and shot radiator. Some of you guys might recognise one photo from Craigslist. Thanks MFG for the spring advice- I will be using the old springs as-is for now but if I get a chance I'll clean 'em up and re-bush. The Gantry was of little value because the lift height is limited. We jacked it up sequentially.
  6. Hi All- I have an Avanti II 1981 model that is having the body lifted from the frame. At this stage we have the body supported up high enough to see through from one side to the other above the amidships frame rails . The idea is to replace the frame with a good short wheelbase 109" Lark unit (I already have this available) and convert it according to the specs diagram and direct comparison with the original. No repair will be done to the original because it is rust damaged and is serving as a donor for all the body mounts and the big 'X' member so it will end up chopped up anyway. If anybody has any advice to offer on the project, I'd really appreciate it before we bog into it. The rear body 'Perches' and tubular Crossmember are likely to be replicated as I know they are pretty ugly, but I aim to utilise as much original componentry as possible / if viable. Fuel lines and brake lines are truly 'fubar' and will be replicated. The car has stood for 17+ years and is remarkably good everywhere else and has low mileage. I have had it running but not for long and was too scared to drive it due to the non existent strength of the rear frame (I don't know how it's still standing up !). One query I have is relating to the orientation of the Upper Control Arm Inner shafts. Should I rotate these at the time of rebuild to compensate for front crossmember sag (loss of Camber angle) or is that only a problem with Studebaker engined cars? I will be replacing the Timing chain and believe many of the camshafts in these era 305 CID's were soft - any advice on checking this is welcome also. My body man will be replacing the non existent passenger side Torque Box before the final lift so as to provide more rigidity during the process. Both will be replaced with Stainless Steel units from Classic enterprises. Where welding is required can anybody advise me on anything salient on that topic like welding rod composition etc. Regards-
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