Stuart Suede
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Posts posted by Stuart Suede
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Thanks - this is most helpful. My Carter rotary fuel pump is on order
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When I bought my 1963 R1 it had an electric fuel pump underneath the battery on the inner driver's fender. i use these clear plastic universal fuel filters so I can see the filter's condition and gas flow. What I've noticed is that the filter between the pump and the carburetor trickles gas through it - that is, it doesn't full up with gas as I think it should. And I notice on acceleration the engine hesitates, as if it doesn't have enough gas. This is after I've taken out the gas tank (for hot tanking and sealing), replaced the entire metal gas line from the tank to the engine, and installed a new electric fuel pump in the same location.
Another Avanti owner advised that it's best to place the electric pump in the back by the fuel tank (better gas volume pushing rather than pulling, or is it the other way around?) The issue is that the gas line by the tank is 3/8" diameter and most electric fuel pumps for sale have either all 5/16" diameter, or inlet 5/16" and outlet 3/8".
Can anyone recommend an electric fuel pump that has 3/8" diameter inlet and outlet, auto shut-off in case the car's in an accident, and quiet? Preferably something less than $50. Thanks in advance.
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Hi there - I have a question for my 63 Avanti. The cable that releases the trunk deck has a lot of friction, and I'm concerned that one time in the near future the cable will break. Can someone out there recommend ways to lubricate the cable? I prefer not removing the cable housing. Thanks a lot.
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Hi there. I have a 1963 R1 (Serial R4581) and noticed that when I have the headlights on, the parking lights also remain on. Federal law required all car manufacturers to do this in 1969 and beyond, and I also have 2 other Mopar vehicles older than 1969 where the parking lights go off when the headlights are on.
I'm wondering if my car's wiring was modified over the years or that's how they all were wired. Thanks.
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On 11/19/2019 at 5:00 PM, MARK said:
I am curious about the condition and price.
Mark
Following - would be nice to have an extra surge tank. If you have the part, please PM me with the price for the tank and shipping. I can do PayPal. Thanks
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Thank you all for your responses. This forum has helped me so much!
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I have a question. My 1963 (Serial Number R4581) is an R1 with automatic and A/C. Last weekend, I drove from L.A. to Palm Springs and back - both with the A/C on (which was working correctly, cycling on and off). Even so, the interior was just comfortable. I could not believe how much heat was coming from the automatic shift lever. Is this normal operation? Has anyone figured out how to make it so the heat transfer from the transmission does not transfer to the passenger compartment? Thanks.
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The outside door key lock on the driver's side does not lock/unlock the door. Looking into the matter further, the spring broke causing the problem. Going to the Avanti parts catalog, this spring is on Page No. 187 (Plate 21-10), part number 1351173 'SPRING, left door lock control lever'
Trying to find this part, I checked SI and performed an internet Google search with no results. I'm hoping someone can guide me to a replacement part. Thanks.
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Does someone know where I can find an A/C blower variable speed switch for my 63 Avanti R1 with factory A/C? Searching 'air conditioner switch' on the SI website, it brings up one part # (1552649) showing 3 applications - 61/62 Lark and Hawk, and 63/64 truck. SI is usually very good in identifying parts that also work on Avantis, so my guess is that 1552649 won't work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have an R1, Serial R4581 with automatic and factory A/C. I just removed the intake manifold from the engine, doing some cleaning and installing a chrome valley cover that I found at a swap meet. I believe that the intake manifold and the rest of the painted engine (not chromed) should be black. I was pretty certain of this until I removed the intake manifold, scraped the head ports (to the intake) and saw blue paint.
Can someone please advise what my engine color should be? Thanks.
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Thanks Mark. Will do.
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Thanks Gunslinger for this great advice. Yes, the fan shroud is in place. I will visually test the fan clutch to see what it does. And if it's bad, I'll just buy the SI replacement - it's somewhat higher in price but I'll have greater insurances that the part will fit properly. I've noticed that SI is very protective in providing full part specs, as they don't want customers to do comparison shopping. Also, I just bought this push electric fan - for $22.50 seems like I can't go wrong. And if I don't need it for this car, I have 3 other Mopars that it could fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263168331810
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Has anyone installed a Pertronix Ignitor ii in their Avanti R1? I thought I did all the right things per their instructions, such as bypassing the ballast resister, making sure the Accel coil meets the proper resistance, and that there's proper ground from the base plate to the distributor body then to the engine. I even had the distributor rebuilt so that the shaft doesn't wobble , The car starts easily, has a slight delay from a stop, but what I think is amiss is that there's no engine torque at high acceleration (she has a rebuilt carburetor)
Searching the internet I saw conflicting suggestions, such as gapping the spark plugs to .045" and adjusting the timing from 4 degrees BTDC to 8 degrees.
At present I have the vacuum advance hose connected. But this too brings up a question - since the Ignitor ii adjusts the dwell throughout the entire RPM range, and dwell impacts timing, should the vacuum advance be connected? I specifically asked this question to Pertronix in writing, and their response was yes.
I'd appreciate your ideas and recommendations. Thanks.
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Thanks mfg and Gunslinger for your input. I did recently replace the water pump with thermostat, had the radiator rodded out, and flushed the cooling system (although I did not remove the freeze plugs to get the crud from the bottom of the engine block). What I'm encountering is the engine heating up terribly (230 degrees) in stop and go traffic, even with the A/C off. After a steady 40 mph or higher, the engine cools down. That's why I'm thinking that the fan clutch is part of the problem. But with the A/C going, that adds to the engine running hot and thought an electric fan may help.
Any recommendations about another brand's (4 Seasons, Hayden, etc.) fan clutch that works, other than SI's part # 1560257?
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Other than buying fan clutch part # 1560257 from Studebaker International for $80, has anyone purchased another brand (4 Seasons, Hayden, etc.) that worked? Searching the internet I saw photos of other fan clutches that may work and are about $35, but thought I'd run the idea by this forum.
Also, has anyone installed a push electric fan hidden behind the grill? I have a 63 R1, automatic with factory A/C, removed the grill, measured the condenser space that may work, and can fit an electric fan not wider than 19 inches and not taller than 14 inches. I'd be curious to know if installing an electric fan had an adverse effect on the charging system. Thanks in advance.
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Any word when Studebaker International will start filling orders? I placed my order (for round lenses, both left and right) way back on March 7th.
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I bought new screws from SI, installed them and realized the threads on the pivot mount were stripped. Resolved the problem by applying thread lock to the new screws.
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For those who are not aware, Studebaker International plans to make reproductions of the headlamp covers in GLASS - for both 1963 and 1964 & Later. There's currently a pre-order price of $99.95/each, which I think is very reasonable since plastic lenses were $58.50/each. In a recent eBay bid for used left and right 1963 lenses with chrome rims, that bid ended at $281.
I already ordered mine (1963 R1), and just wanted to let everyone know. Part numbers for 1963 (up to serial # R4892) are 1350398 right, and 1350399 left. The flyer I received from Studebaker International states that this pre-order price is good until March 30th. The more orders they receive the sooner they'll reproduce them.
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Hi Brad. From the shipment tracking number, I see that you got my fuel gauge. Please advise when the work is done. Thanks, Stuart
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Thanks Brad. Got your private message and the fuel gauge will go out tomorrow via USPS. Stuart
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Hi Brad. Removed the original Avanti gauge and am ready to ship to you with payment. I can ship to you with a check if that's okay with you. Please provide your full name and shipping address. Perhaps we should communicate outside this forum - my email is s2suede@yahoo.com
Thanks.
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Hi Brad. I just bought a Lark gauge on eBay and am waiting for delivery. What I'd like to do is temporarily remove the original Avanti gauge and install the Lark gauge, then send you the Avanti gauge so you can use your Lark gauge then switch the face to Avanti. Will that work?
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Okay Brad, thanks. Let me pursue a Lark fuel gauge, then have you change over the face. Will let you know. BTW, I'm in Los Angeles area - where are you?
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Very informative post Brad - thanks so much. I'd appreciate it if you check for any spares and let me know. If not, how much would you charge to take the inner workings of the aftermarket gauge to the original face, needle and housing?
Are you ready for this?
in 1963-64 Avanti
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I've seen this car in person and know the owner. The car lives in Palm Springs. VtMike, it does not have both - only A/C. There was a story behind the Supercharged script on the fenders, but it doesn't come to mind. But the car is just as good as it looks in this video.
Other than filling in the holes in the trunk that Sailingaventure mentioned, there were two other things I noticed - The armrest has carpet whereas mine has a chrome trim piece. Also, the spring broke on the vanity mirror in the glove box - on mine, when you pull out the drawer, the mirror pops up automatically.