Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About R2W55

  • Rank
    AOAI Forum Member

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1978 2731

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. oops I read that wrong. I was looking for a number for the gauge itself sorry

  2. I am also looking at replacing the Stewart Warner Oil Gauge.  Did you find out the correct number for the 0-80 lbs yet?

    Have you considered getting the 0-100 and changing the sending unit to the matching unit?

  3. R2W55

    Coil Springs

    I just double checked and the bushings have not been tightened yet. I just checked with a MOOG Representative and the 2 springs are compatible. I guess I'll have to wait until I get the body back on.
  4. R2W55

    Coil Springs

    Thanks. That eases my mind. I would hate o have to disassemble the control arms again to replace. just curious, about how much distance is there between your frame and the upper control arm bumper?
  5. I am now putting my 78 back together! But something does not seem right! I replaced the Front Coils springs with Moog CC653, variable rate springs. I had read a couple of articles on Avanti Websites sites that said these were a good replacement. The Moog CC655 were the recommended but are no longer available. I replaced all the bushings, rebuilt the kingpins and reassembled the upper and lower control arms (no engine or body yet) using a chain around the frame and floor jack (actually a truckers strap) to compress the spring and reassemble the king pins. All went well. As expected, with no weight on the frame, the upper control arm bumper was sitting on the frame. I have put the engine and transmission back on the frame. I expected at this point to see some compression of the spring. NONE! With a jack stand under the lower control arm, and pushing down on the frame, I still do not get any compression. I again put the floor jack under the lower control arm and wrapped a chain around it and the frame. I can get compression this way. The upper/lower control arms do move up and down as expected. Does this sound normal? Is the body going to add that much more weight? Did I order the wrong springs?
  6. R2W55

    Dash Panel

    I wasn't sure of years that would work so thank you for the information. I have the dash out of the car. Yes it was pain, but not too bad. Yes I have tagged all the wiring. I still have to trace out some of the 'extra' switches. I am probably about a year away from putting the interior back in but I like to line up all the materials ahead of time. I just finished the chassis, rebuilding the all the bushings and kingpins, steering, differential etc.... Just about ready to put Tie rods and steering box back in. Also put Turner brakes on front but still keeping the Drum brakes on back. I just thought if someone had a old dash sitting around I might try to recover it. As you can see mine is not too bad but i don't want to put it back in that way. If I recover it I 'might have to eliminate the pleating but I don't want to. Just want to 'play' around to see if can do it!
  7. R2W55

    Dash Panel

    Does anyone have an old Avanti Dash available? I want to try my hand at re-upholstering one but don't want to destroy my current one. I am aware of the reproduction one available from Nostalgic Motors. My car is a 1978 so it would have to be compatible. I assume anything before 1980 would work but don't know for sure. My current dash, while probably repairable, is very brittle and cracked which I know is a common problem. I would like to pay at little as possible as this is an experiment and I have never tried this before. I have viewed a few UTUBE videos and it doesn't look impossible just very tedious. If I am successful, I would try to document this for other owners to see if they would like to try it. I am in the Chicago area or I am going to be at the May 4th Studebaker swap in Southbend, Indiana, so I could pick it up there.
  8. As I continue to piece My 78 back together (RQB-2731), I am putting a notebook together with parts and alternates that I find that work. I am also trying to keep notes (if I can read my own handwriting) about any problems and modifications I have to do. A Frame off restoration is not an overnight project so this might take awhile. A lot of this information and guidance comes from other Avanti owners, like yourself, Gunslinger, and my local Chicago chapter to name a few. You all have years of experience and I greatly appreciate the information and advice. As they say, anyone can take a car apart. It's putting it back together that's the challenge. I also say that's the FUN of this hobby!
  9. I meant the AOAI Facebook page. Not forum. Get the two mixed up sometimes!
  10. Well I also talked to a couple of other mechanics and they all recommended I pack the bearings. I figured if the differential lube does get past the seals it will wash the grease out and either way I’m safe. I bought the bearing/seals kit someone posted on Avanti Forum. The fit perfectly and was about $50 fir the whole set , both sides. On a side note just put Turner brake kit on front.
  11. My information is that Russ Ware, (Studebaker Parts) bought all of Valerie Hanson Rubber stock and is getting the mold made for these parts. I talked to him at 602-995-5311. These are supposed to be available this year sometime
  12. I appreciate the information but How does the Gear Lube in the Differential get to the bearing if you have a inner seal?.
  13. I just pulled the axle and you are correct. This also supports my thought that the bearing is NOT lubricated by the Gear lube in the diff. Unfortunately, on my driver side, the bearing is separating from the rollers. Since I am this far, and I am doing a frame off, I am going to replace all the seals and the bearings. Confusing the matter is I have multiple part numbers for all the parts. Have you ordered and used the part numbers you supplied above? I have different (but similar) numbers from another member. But I have found out that there are a lot parts that will interchange.
  14. Ah, if a picture is worth a thousand words then a U Tube video is worth a million!. Just viewed a video on this and all became clear. The 'donut' I was referring to is the bearing collar and the inner seal is actually the outer race on the bearing. Yes you have to drill/cut and chisel this part off including the bottom race of the bearing. Let the fun begin! I also think that the bearing is a sealed unit and NOT lubricated by the Gear oil. So I am glade I pulled them to check them
  • Create New...