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GlennW

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Posts posted by GlennW

  1. Glenn.........before you install the pump, check the specs on the location of the machined edge of the impeller to the mounting face of the pump. It should measure .934 to .938. I recently replaced my water pump and found that both the old pump and the new pump both failed to meet this spec.Using a gear puller, I pulled the impeller to get it within the spec. When I put it in the water pump manifold, with out the gasket, and spun the pump, I could detect a very slight interferance/contact of the impeller and the housing. Installing the gasket ( approx .004 ) and spiniing it again..........no interferance.It now cools much better.

    I made this change and a couple of others cooling changes this past winter that resulted in my '63 R1 A/C car struggling to get to 180 in city traffic with the A/C on in 90+ weather. A 42 year battle that I finally won.

    John

    Great minds think alike ;) Yeah, the smaller you can get the impeller/housing gap on this type of pump, the more efficient it'll be. Of course it's like a contest to get closest to an alligator without getting bit-loser gets bitten. When I'd pulled the water pump there was freshly honed edges on 3 of the 6 vanes so I knew it had been at minimum tolerance and the shaft tilt from the worn bearings let them touch off. I measured the vane depth of my pump and the mean was .946" no more than +/- .003" from vane to vane. The Shop Manual spec. is listed as .934"~.938" so it's understandable it started to drag. Too much of a hassle to get in under the hood with a drop indicator fixture but I'd have to assume my manifold has .950" clearance. I don't have cooling issues or even have the AC belt installed since the AC didn't work in 1981 when I bought the car and live in WI where that's not a hardship enough to want to comepletely re-do it correctly. Faced with an "all or nothing" situation I found I could tolerate nothing :)

  2. I remember plenty of magazine ads where the original car was flanked by "beautiful people" in classy situations, and I think it was generally accepted by the public the Avanti wasn't a sports car as much as a sporty luxury car like the Buick Riviera, and later the Olds Toronado and much later perhaps even the Monte Carlo or "bigger bird" bloated T-Birds. Buyers of the time proabably would've gone to the 'vette as a sports car first anyway and the automatic was coming into it's own as a reliable and easy to drive alternative to the std. transmission. If buyers saw it different I'm sure more of them would have ordered standards and the build ratio would not be what it is. Lots of same era 'vettes were built with AT also, just seemed to have been accepted as compatible with performance.

  3. Yeah, that makes more sense, the unit was at about 75° when I took it out of the car so of course it won't feel like it does when at operating temp. Good catch, thanks. It does spin down pretty quick when shut down after normal driving and it has no signs of leakage so back in it goes ☺

  4. I've got the stock cast water pump pulley & metal fan. Viscous coupling is original as far as I know, with the "Patented in United States Patented in Canada 1961" cast into the front hub. Without the unit mounted to the pump and no fan on it for leverage, it turns smoothly by hand but with decent resistance. Is there any definitive measurement on how it should "feel" ? I have no idea what a new one feels like, should it turn really easy by hand and only have resistance from the inner fluid at higher RPM? No cooling problems with it-rock steady 180° withing normal driving conditions, but I have the water pump off for replacement so if there's a need for a new coupling it'll only take maybe 10 minutes to swap it out so I'd rather do it now if deemed wise based on some actual tactile spec. Thanks.

  5. Got the water pump shaft wiggle blues so I pulled it and I'll be ordering a 1560395 complete unit. The old one doesn't have the 3 reinforcing flanges and the casting number is four digit- #32??. Anyone know what this is, perhaps a generic NAPA, Champion or Airtex one? After I get everything back together and buttoned down I don't want to toss the old one if it's a core somebody might want to rebuild for a non-Avanti application.

  6. I tried ............. but to no avail. Admitadly computer skills are not my strong points.

    I'll gladly send pictures in an E mail for anyone that would like to see them. A photo ad will appear in the November issue of "Turning Wheels" and the next issue of "Avanti Magazine" . A photo ad of the frame has been in the "Avanti Magazine" for about a year now, so if you still have your copy you could look there .

    Thanks to all that relied with helpful suggestions.

    John

    For the future if you go to take a picture for use here, choose the lowest resolution & picture size on your phone/camera and try that. In the short run, if you want to email the picture to woodysfairings@yahoo.com I'll be glad to redo it and email back a copy that should work for you.

  7. After you click on "reply" and get the dialog box, look down to the lower right and you should see, "More reply options" to the right of "Post". Click on more reply options and in addition to the dialog box you should get the "attach files" option at the lower left. It appears you can upload a total of 500KB in your various posts so you'll want to choose carefully and always use the minimum size & quality image to reduce filesize. This image is only 11KB post-10928-0-05118500-1411348025_thumb.jpg for example.

  8. For those in the future who may want to know - Studebaker Int'l calls this part a "Medallion" and the part number is 26-001.

    Cool, thanks! Never thought of that as a keyword, tried disc, disk, hub, etc. Their current printed catalog's Numeric Index shows the 26-xxx series as 26-006 through 26-013. I'll hafta look it up online later.

  9. Everything about it screams, "run away!" Staying completely away from any politics, E85 has a long history of finding and destroying vintage rubber items in boats and cars, there's just no possible advantage in running it unless you have a free source, and then it still may end up costing you more. As Gunsliger mentioned, modern E85/Flexfuel vehicles use constant feedback monitoring to make adjustments on the fly that we'd need a wrench for on our 63-64 cars. On top of that, every component of the fuel system has been selected and approved for the ethanol effects.

  10. Thanks much, I appreciate the help. Bummer to have to go through ebay BS but I don't make the rules ;

    Dan Booth advertises on e-bay, but I believe he can be contacted directly at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Michigan. The phone # is (was?) 248-349-4884.

    Thanks, I appreciate your effort. I went ahead and ordered via ebay right after the first post. Nothing earthshaking on my build sheets but still good to have. 50 years later a few of the items still need attention-maybe I should call the factory and get somebody fired ☺☺☺

  11. I was told this week that my car was an early one, and he could tell it wasn't one of the later model Ford made ones cause it has the rear view mirror mounted on the dash ( it's not, it's mounted on the windshield just above the dash like everyone else's.

    I thanked him for the history lesson on Avantis and went on my way.....

    Common mistake, obviously confused yours with the LATER ford Avantis from the Windsor Plant, which had the rearview mirrors in the glovebox slide-out tray ☺☺☺☺☺
  12. Warren, Studebaker International has them in both the black background and also in the Silver background. The 1 3/4" size does work fine for putting on the wheel center caps. They've been on my 76 for two years and have not come off, so its a good adhesive.

    Cool, do you remember what keyword(s) you used to search? Just spent 10+ minutes and coming up empty. Thanks.
  13. I did some googling after posting and saw a number of the Appliance wheels and caps on Ebay. I did pass the info on to Joe D. to look on Ebay.

    The first picture of the round caps with the Avanti logo and silver background have the logos/stickers available through Studebaker International as well as the Avanti logo with the black background. I put the logos with the black background on my Dayton wheel caps and they look very nice. I believe the size of the stickers is 1 3/4". The one thing I don't like about the Dayton's is the fasteners, 2 screws and a backing plate mounted from the back side of the wheel. If the Appliance wheels have plastic clips, that may be easier to mount than the Dayton's.

    Yeah, anything with a flat surface might be best mounted with 2-sided VHB foam tape like that used for auto dealer tags and other automotive trim items. I have no idea what happened to the center "Magnum 500" discs from wheels. Had 'em in 1982, now I don't :(
  14. I like the Avanti in script ones with the black background in the third picture. Are they 1-3/4" dia? If so, where are they from or are those the ones you have 4 of? I'd consider them if those are yours, ONLY IF plwindish isn't interested, of course. No rush, I've been without any center decorations for 30+ years ;)

  15. I would think that Raymond Loewy would have insisted on NO external trunk release and for good measure no (or worthless) sun visors. I would venture the statement is false

    I agree! With some of his flair vs function I'm greatfull we actually have door handles on BOTH doors ☺
  16. Inspection sheets for '63/'63 Avantis can be purchased on Ebay from Dan booth @ Nostalgic Motors for around 60 bucks. Give him your Vin# and he'll see if he has them. Mine had 5or 6 sheets. I held off for a long time, I'd rather buy parts than paper, but they were well worth it. It shows problems found as your car came down the line ( loose bolts, fit and finish, etc.)

    Thanks much, I appreciate the help. Bummer to have to go through ebay BS but I don't make the rules ;)
  17. I purchased the inspection sheets for mine and found them very interesting. The 1st owner told me that if I could get these inspection sheets it would probably show a lot of time in the paint shop (Buddy System!) He was right! Build sheet did not show TT. It has 3.73TT, yep another Buddy! Nothing beats talking to the guy that bought it new. I'm very fortunate.

    Sad that I could forget all about Freeman Spicer considering the building's history and all. A mind is a terrible thing to, um, er, what was I saying? I hadn't heard of inpection sheets or their being available, where would I purchase those? Maybe I'll find mine spent an inordinate amount of it's build time in the breakroom ☺
  18. The original owner of my '63 worked @ the Studebaker plant, so I assumed that he just picked it up at the plant. When I asked him about this, he told me that he picked up the car at Freeman Spicer in South Bend. I have the window sticker to verify this. He did order the car and watched it go down the line....That would be a pretty cool thing!

    Cool,thanks! I've always wondered about the lineage of my '64. I'm the 4th and 6th owner (different story) and did get a chance to talk with the 2nd owner back in '81 or '82 when I bought the car. He said the original owner was an engineer at Studebaker. Some years later I found you could get build order copies from N&A so I ordered a set. the DESTINATION is listed as; "South Bend Indiana" and the SHIP VIA is; "2 ENGR".
  19. All great advice above. The OP's original post has 2 questions, one about performance and one about which one to buy if they're both in the same shape and pricing. The two seem almost unrelated since it's hard to argue against buying an R2 at an R1 price or argue for buying an R1 for an R2 price.

  20. Can't remember if it was in '63 or '64 or had round/rectangular headlamp bezels but mine was a white w/ black interior. Walked to grade school in Port Chester, NY (1½ miles, uphill each way ☺)and a kid in my class got a ride to school from his mom or dad every day. If I was still a block or two from the school when that fine white car went by, I knew it was time to start running. I knew I would own one some day...and a '64 Riviera......and a '67 Mustang 2+2 and...

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