GlennW
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Posts posted by GlennW
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Fine by me, but is it really a problem or part of an ongoing catfight? ☺
If I were to have any negative thoughts on the trivia section it would be taking it too seriously, or too hyper. I've observed questions being answered by the questioner within maybe 24 hours, simply because nobody answered them. Personally, there shouldn't be an urgency to get an answer, but that's just me. Some kind of reference regarding answers seems reasonable, but if there's going to be an undue burden of proof on uncontested answers it may turn the trivia section into an echo chamber.
Edit:Here's a question we may be able to use as an example-a week ago I asked a question titled "Tow Vehicle". Nobody posted the answer so I've done nothing. It's only been a week and whatever happens (or doesn't) regarding that trivia question doesn't really matter to me. If it was critical to someone to know the answer ASAP obviously they could PM me for an answer. So, am I part of a problem, solution, or a non-event?
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False.
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need to be heating water, not there, and you want to be heating the water conducting into the block.
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I checked the '89 on eBay and I believe it has been re-listed. This is a good test case for judging value. Starting price is $15K (too high) with no offers and a BIN price well over the "market". Inquiry suggested that while low mileage is good the cosmetics are not. A buyer will want to repaint the car and repair the interior. Seller says it is mechanically sound and has been a reliable daily driver. The car is in the SF CA area and I am in Houston which is at least a $1200 transport trip.
I considered an offer. I would wind up with an "acceptable" car in which I have a $16-17K investment which would not sell for close to that. Sorry no dice. Seller will likely sell the car for $10K-$12K 'as is'.
Good points, will be interesting to see what it goes for if it does sell. Sounds like a decent car from the description and assuming it's a CA car that didn't play in salt or saltwater. Paint description seems about right for a 25+ year old car and for a daily driver it's probably fine as is to most folks (or they'd paint it to their liking anyway if they found a sound car.) No dog in this and I've never followed the later years, but always willing to learn things Avanti.
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Yes, Autogeek is a great resource. I'm an auto tech instructor, mostly teach engine performance and computer controls but I started a detailing course a couple of years ago that I teach. Mike Phillips is a great person at Autogeek and will answer your emails. His book, "The Complete Guide To A Show Car Shine" is excellent and I use it for my textbook. Before Mike was at Autogeek, he spent many years at Meguiars. Here is the link for the book: http://autogeek.comm...il book&x=0&y=0
The book explains single stage and two stage paints and how to approach them, and the differences between polishes, glazes, waxes and compounds. Plus various methods of hand polishing, machine polishing and pads. The book is a bargain at $20.00 considering the information.
To determine if a finish is restorable requires a few steps. Test spots are done starting with less aggressive polishes then going more aggressive until you get the results you want.
In the case of my Avanti, I broke a lot of rules to get a shine. There was paint spilled on it and other stains from years of junk piled on it. The rear quarters and trunk have been repainted and they are not as nice as the original paint. There are MANY scratches and chips. I just wanted to make the car look better and presentable from 20 or 30 feet. It looks much better in the photo I posted than in person, but it has that cool worn "patina" look.
Studebaker applied single stage paints and my color Avanti Gray is a metallic. This means is cannot be wet sanded because there is no clearcoat layer over the metallic and if sanded, the metallic will go away. In the case of my car, no metallic could be found because the paint was so oxidized. After not getting good results with what I feel is one of the best and most aggressive compound, Meguiars 105, I decided to wet sand the car to quickly cut the heavy layer of oxidation. After that I compounded a few times, then polished a few times. I used a rotary polisher and the biggest problem was the pad would get so dirty and clogged with old paint that it was very time consuming due to constantly having to wash the pad(s). In addition, dirty pads get hot quick and get sticky so I had to be careful to not burn the paint. There were already some thin areas on the paint where I had to go easy. This WAS the most difficult polishing job I have done. I am at the point now where I am polishing with a Rupes dual action polisher and Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. #7 is very high in oil content compared to other polishes and "feeds" old dried paint. This polish is recommended to restore old paint by many professionals, however, my paint was so bad, it was not strong enough begin with. The dual action polisher removes swirls and haze left from the rotary polisher, and in my case there was a lot because so much of the paint was old and "dead" and I had to use a lot of pressure. If anyone gets the itch to buy a polisher, let me know. We have most of the popular ones at the school and I can share my experiences with them. Below is a pic of the car before any polishing the day I bought it. First one is in the garage where it sat for years with flat tires, ( the seller is wiping the years of dust off) and the other is after I had it towed and washed.
Excellent info, thanks. FWIW, I saw a metallic copper colored one some years back where the owner cleaned the heck out of the the single stage paint with wax-stripping solvent followed by wetsanding with #1000 paper. Then he clearcoated it and did all the block sanding and buffing in the clear. I was very impressed the way all the physical imperfections and minor scratches simply disappeared.
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I take that back....since you said a car....and it would have the been a previous owner that pulled a boat.
Perhaps another good trivia question, but yes, it's a car in question this time ☺ If nothing else, Jon will know (or folks with Turning Wheels Vol 22, No 3 from 1990).
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Here's an 89 at 52K miles on Ebay that didn't sell for $18K BIN as a data point.
Bob
"This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available." Do you know if it sold or not, and what price? Just curious. Regarding the rest of the conversation, $20k~$30k can be seen as "only 10K difference" or "50% more!" depending on veiwpoint, and regardless, it's always going to come down to how bad somebody wants something and what wallet depth is available. ☺
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You also have to remember that the R1 with 240 hp is gross horsepower...since about 1971 engines have to be rated at net horsepower. That 240 gross hp in an R1 would translate roughly to 190 net horsepower or thereabouts depending on engine accessories, exhaust, etc.
I don't know whether to say how sad the earlier engines compare to modern engines or how well new engines compare...kind of a distinction without a difference.
Bummer, didn't realize that. Just thought mine was a dog
Let's just celebrate 'puters, fuel injection, direct injection and variable valve & ign timing, I guess. -
In 1989, Jon Myer's '63 R3 was used as a tow vehicle for what car?
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Ok...so we now have two confirmed factory V6 Avantis. I have to say I feel an Avanti without a V8 is simply wrong, but the more the merrier. Modern V6 engines are more powerful in many ways than the V8 of the early '60s so Avanti performance hasn't suffered and it adds to the history of the marque.
Heck yeah, Ford's new GT has a 600HP six cyl (twin turbo, of course) and even 4 cyls. have some decent numbers. My R1 is a 5.0L rated at what, 240HP and I have a 2.0L four car rated at 260HP. Can't remember the HP numbers, but with nothing more than a chip and air filter/exhaust changes, people are getting some crazy numbers from the Subaru WRX flat-six. Good times! I've always thought a great Avanti build could be done with a tweaked GM3800 cast iron V6 as a base.
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Thanks Glenn. I will check with them. Nothing left for comparison but I know the specs I need.
My pleasure. Note they will have minimums and if you can't find what you need on the web page they may still have it. I buy 1000' at a time so I don't know what the minimums might be BUT if you look at the lower left of the Contact Us page there's a few resellers that would at least be able to listen to your needs. Good luck!
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I use these guys http://www.cleanseal.com/products.html for a motorcycle fairing application, they're an OEM supplier to automakers, RV mfrs. and other fields, so they have a lot of unusual shapes as off the shelf products. Good folks to work with, maybe they'll have something you can use, even if you need to take a razor blade to adapt something. At the least, if you have a short piece of the old stuff to send them and how many feet you need, they might be able to find something.
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GlennW,...I wouldn't consider using a Studebaker Avanti for year round service either. Doing so, I believe, would be a bad choice on many different levels.
But on the other hand, to drive a Chevy powered nice, but not 'show worthy', Avanti ll year round has turned out to be, for 'old mfg' anyway, a VERY practical proposition!
PS......'old mfg' doesn't like car payments....but he does appreciate the now falling fuel price!!
Very true, to each their own, and I wouldn't want to seem disparaging to the newer Avanti makes so I'm never sure how it'll be taken when I'm so possessive/protective of my Stude one. To be fair, they aren't making anything I'd choose to replace my 2007 turbo Solstice GXP, so it stays garaged in Winter also. That would leave my 2 year old E350 passenger van as my only transportation-a lousy snow vehicle IMHO but needed for business purposes so it replaced my 4x4 pickup. I prefer to pick up inexpensive older "Winter cars" in the Fall and drive them for the daily jaunts around town, breffus at the diner, etc that really tear up a vehicle and expose one to daily fender benders. I keep 'em until they need anything where the repairs would total more than just getting another cheap car. This year it's a 2001 Buick LeSabre.
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I'd never consider my '64 for a daily driver for many reasons, the obvious being it's too special to me to want to "use up" like it was some Kia or whatever disposable ride. Though it's not the Mona Lisa, I feel it's my duty to be a good custodian of the car and make sure someone else gets a turn with it after I'm gone. Also, around here they salt the heck outta the roads in Winter to the point where you might as well dunk a car in the ocean to save time. My Avanti is more like ice cream-I love it but need to keep it a treat rather than a steady diet. To be fair, another reason is reliability. I simply can't (won't) do the kind of maint. on a 50+ year old car that would be required for it to be as reliable as my new vehicles and I do like having 20~40 mpg (depending on what vehicle) and airbags
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Outstanding! That is really good news. I love the printed choice for this kind of item because I love being able to make notes in margins and as mentioned-.pdf's are great to archive with but not real user friendly for "leafing through" even with a fast 'puter. I can't see myself ever having my '64 judged, but would absolutely treasure something like this as reading/reference material.
I'm in no hurry, I'd be glad to wait for #10
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Greg prince, together with others, has been working on a huge authenticity manual for 1963-64 Avantis. It is ready for proofing and was last waiting for approval from AOAI board member Steve James to send out electronically for further proofing and feedback. When released, the book will be 400 pages of color images and text covering every aspect of the Avanti. Steve has some health problems earlier, and I figure that once he is recovered well enough, we'll get back to final proofing and making arrangement for printing.
Wow, impressive! This is something that will be available for sale to membership/general public?
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I think you read more into this than was intended. And as for posting a tutorial on repair, I'm very busy. This is not a hobby for me, sorry you were offended.When I get a little time, I will try to write something up, that is comprehensive.
There are many, many different opinions on repair. Just look up one that you think may work on youtube. I don't presume to know any better than anyone else, so I won't bore you all and say my way is any better than someone else may have done.
Thanks, Happy New Year
Brad
My apologies Brad, my goal of becoming a complete idiot is not yet achieved, but I'm making great progress lately. Somehow I completely missed your earlier reply that included, "it is epoxy-based", which was the OP's question. Again, I apologize and I'll do a shot of PVA in your honor
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7-24-63
Hmm, order date or actual build date? I.E. my rect. bezel '64 #5391 was ordered on 9/18/63 but didn't start on the line until 9/30/64. Just throwing out that info in case it's helpful in any way.
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WELL YOUALL LOST ME....I WAS JUST WONDERING OUT LOUD WHAT THE BEST repair resin is for the original layup.....my next project may require quite a bit of FG work....in my dreams ...rqb3263
I don't see where you did anything wrong and I certainly don't see why an excellent shop in Missouri would be offended over DIY advice given to a person in Florida, or not chime in to help. But that's just me. I can't imagine a dentist not chipping in to answer a general filling process question for fear everybody would start drilling their own teeth. ☺
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OK ....I have recently read where some owners have replaced there backup lights with a second set of tail lights.....This sounds like a good idea to me. since my backup lights dont work anyway..........but where do i get the red lens material ???
Another possibility is leaving the BU housings stock (except for the wiring) and putting in the brightest red LED cluster lamps you can find in place of the usual clear incandescent lamp. Thay way it'll all look stock until you hit the brakes. It would be easy to put a pair of white LEDs or maybe a striplight of 'em where they wouldn't be conspicuous, maybe even 2 LED panel lights in the lower holes of your license plate. You could also go with dual element sockets in the BU and rewire the them as complete additional tail lights with hi/lo cluster red LEDs. Personally, I'm going to go with the first option, as I think it'd be more noticeable to have additional reds come on during braking where there'd previously been no light showing.
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I have original production order and copy of vehicle inspection sheets, original photos and its matching exactly. Interesting stuff.
What date did it come off the line? That should certainly help narrow down the possiblities, even if only by excluding a few.
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Just pine needles, I'm a bad boy.
(God bless us, every one ☺) -
I remembered them.....Still, it's always nice to hear your positive comments.
Doubt if that was meant in any negative way, it's a very good observation on what slogans are supposed to be and do. Bet everyone can come up with a pair of slogans used by Coke, (3 instantly came to mind for me) or one or two for many other products. In the meantime, "I can't believe I ate the whole thing", "plop plop, fizz fizz" ☺ Heck, even Faber College had a better one. (When better women are made-Faber men will make them...) hee hee
Everyday Avanti?
in Avanti Pub
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Black is the new primer
Yeah, from your description there was no reason to overpay for that car unless it was "the one you always wanted" for some reason. Looking back at this thread was a good reminder to me on how many cars fall under the Avanti banner. Kind of like asking "how many would consider a Honda Civic as a daily driver?" it depends so much on what year/condition the car in question was. I could easily see a daily that had airbags, adjustable steering wheel, cruise control and a GM motor that could be repaired anywhere or simply replaced at the drop of a hat by a corner garage.