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GlennW

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Posts posted by GlennW

  1. I too, would say get a good handle on which (if either) was unsound underneath and what obvious money would need for frame/hogtrough issues. The rest would really depend on what you plan to do with the car. If you want a daily driver that's lower cost to work on, with more performance, the chebby one is almost a no-brainer. If the "I got the last of the Studebaker built & powered" Avantis, you have no choice but to get the '64. (is it one of the good-looking ones, rectangular headlamp lens?) :rolleyes:

  2. 15 hours ago, mfg said:

    And upon closer inspection I believe the device in the mechanics hand isn't a cable at all!...I think it's one of those 'twirly' type quick change spark plug tools...what appears to be a cable is the straight 'shaft' section of the tool.

    What the mechanic is doing to this NOVI is changing its spark plugs (16)...and that's an empty spark plug holding fixture laying on top of the cowl.

    Good catch. I was looking at the curved cable and the item being held does pass lower and apart from the cable.

  3. I agree, that looks like a live axle w/outboard brakes, I guess that'd make sense if they needed the inboard space for the differential. Whatever that cable is, it looks like it's secured to the car near the right side, and goes into some kind of fitting or grommet hole on the left. Maybe the guy in the pic doesn't know where the other end attaches, either ☺ Car looks like it's in a museum or part of a show display in this pic.http://www.autos.ca/galleries/2010/thumbs/mdm-10199-novi_bv-10199.jpg   

  4. Nice! I used aluminum (no rust and won't damage the fiberglass like steel can) "riv-nut" threaded fasteners in the appropriate thread and re-used the original screws. No need to use backing washers inside the firewall to spread the force out around the hole, like with a pop-rivet. I prefer the ones with knurling on the barrel to help avoid them ever spinning in use, and you need the exact size drill/hole to where the rivnut needs a little push just to get it in.   It's important to note the material thickness of the dash to get the correct grip range rivnut.

  5. On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 8:30 PM, brad said:

    You should use Weldwood Landau, and vinyl top adhesive. Anything else, and your asking for trouble. No hems or seams. Fold it back on itself, and do 1/2 a a time. Place masking paper between halves to keep glue off the other half your not gluing. Get a good wallpaper seam roller to follow the contours and get sharp creases around the back rest bumps.

     

    very nice work! ☺

  6. Yeah, paint looked very "original" but what a nice car for sure. I couldn't stand JB Smoove back in his earliest days days playing Steppen Fetchit on Showtime at the Apollo, still don't understand why/how he has a career. That's a great video to watch with the sound muted.

  7. Maybe try again or use a different device to view the link? I see it marked SOLD and the price being $28.5k also. The car looks beautiful, but I can see folks sitting on their wallets for a '63/'64 with a GM drivetrain. I believe that would be called an Avaniti II and nobody's going to pay that kind of money. The original Corvette drivetrain was a hamster wheel compared to some other cars, but that's what I'd want if I was looking to buy a perfect first year one for top dollar.

  8. I think the plethora of "explanations" perhaps shows how many ways there are to do something wrong, and with the painting of new fiberglass there are many. Sometimes it's as simple as changing the mold release type or brand, or what products and techniques were used to scrub and prep it regarding mold release residue on the parts. Variations in exotherm and/or baking temps during and after molding, as well as % of catalyst/resin and a whole other cast of variables come to mind. Remember when the urethane bumper covers first came into widespread use and body shops couldn't seem to repaint repair bumper covers? There were cars everywhere with big areas of yellow bumper where the paint fell off. Along comes new adhesion promoters instead of the usual primers and all was fine. The fact there was no smoking gun on an actual paint defect tells me they didn't really know the reason and didn't have the time or financial resources to find out. Really a shame, as it IMHO was a big factor in the company's failure.

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