GlennW
-
Posts
185 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by GlennW
-
-
Are actually in 1st or D?
-
Do the springs look relatively new, compared to the rest of the rear end? If so, the previous owner may have had new springs made and afterwards the rear end stuck up too high, so they lowered it with blocks. Just guessing here.
-
Had never heard of them, very cool looking car.
-
Oops, thanks. I fixed it
-
55 minutes ago, Stormy said:
On a related subject, does anyone have a diagram of the fuse panel with labels for each fuse? Daryl
Can't attest to accuracy, but it has been helpful on my '64;
-
I like Mark's description. Sounds like when I bought the car around 30 years ago. Now it would be;
Remove driver's seat/replace fuse/replace driver's seat
-
Removed, because I'm an idiot with a keyboard
-
Black w/tan (camel?) interior 1983 sold for $12k at Barrett-Jackson earlier today. Looked to be in very nice shape.
-
Richly deserved.
-
-
-
Yeah, I'd seen (most?) the episode when first aired, just meant it as a heads-up for those who might not have seen it. Kind of painful to watch, IMHO, I don't recall watching the whole thing last time.
-
FYI, just noticed the episode with a 1983 Avanti is starting right now on the Motor Trend (old "Velocity") Channel.
-
On 12/27/2018 at 6:03 PM, Jolly-John said:
Yes, Glenn. As my posted indicated, "lost on him (Rick)".....but certainly not on other readers. Hopefully, someone here will be able to use the Seattle craigslist frame....It sure looked solid, especially compared to most frames that spent time in the Midwest or the northeast. Hard to believe (for me), but we're at 55-56 years of age....over half a century....on a 1963 model year Avanti frame. My, how time does fly! John
I probably should have finished with a smiley ☺You seemed so bummed that the subsequent discussion based on the OP's inquiry didn't appear to have been worth it (my take on it) so I hoped to add a positive note. All these discussions are gold, IMHO
-
On 12/23/2018 at 5:33 PM, Jolly-John said:
I see Rick64R2 last visited the AOAI forum on October 26, so most of this helpful discussion has been lost on him. Too bad, since that restored frame on the Seattle craigslist looks like a gem for the money. Hard to figure why anyone would start patching a rusty Avanti frame or convert a Lark frame, when this restored one is available for an asking price of $2,000. But, each to his own. Merry Christmas, Gang. John
Information shared on a bulletin board is never lost. It will always help someone.
-
On 11/30/2018 at 8:56 AM, Stuart Boblett said:
Thanks GlenW, that is what I thought. I do have one more question. Is the ammeter circuit hot all the time and connecting a third wire for the voltmeter will cause a continual though slight draw on the battery? I think I know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again.
Good catch, I'm more dangerous than you
Dunno if it's hot all the time, they usually are, so you'd want to use an ign. controlled circuit as Jim78 said.
-
Yes, removing both wires from the ammeter and connecting them to each other will only take the ammeter out of the system, everything else will be the same. Are they just ring terminals on threaded posts? If so, you can just use the largest size capscrew & nylock nut that will fit, and tape them securely with good quality electrical tape like 3M 33+. I'd use a button head socket capscrew so that combined with the nylock nut, there won't be any sharp corners. If you add another wire & ring terminal with an appropriate length of wire when you connect the two ammeter wires, you'll have the wire needed for the + side of the new voltmeter. The negative will go to the nearest - wire or suitable metal. Keep in mind not all metal in an Avanti is "grounded" i.e. common to the battery +. You don't need to use as heavy a wire for the voltmeter as the ammeter, just whatever the volt meter takes, probably 18ga or less.
-
On 11/24/2018 at 5:59 PM, avantifred said:
when I owned a 1931 Ford there were several parts that were chrome plated BUT not polished to a high finish. These were called "buttler chrome finish" they were actually scratched the Avanti air cleaner probably could be chrome plated with a steel wool scratch finish!?
Perhaps your plater can remember & help you out!
Great answer, if you are trying to reproduce a chrome finish that isn't perfectly smooth, a good plater and polisher can usually prepare the surface of the metal so that it is not the normal mirror smooth. Chrome will always reflect the surface of what is on which is why a good Chrome job depends on great base metals and polishing. I imagine that something similar could be done by using the correct media on the bare metal but I don't have a clue what media would be best. You would probably have to have the part dechromed, first and absolutely a good player is the only way to go because if they don't understand how to do what you are asking for they are never going to achieve it by accident ?
-
On 10/16/2018 at 6:58 PM, mfg said:
Your welcome!.....I wouldn't use stainless steel rivets for this job.....they're extra hard to set, and you're only anchoring into fiberglass.
I'd go with an aluminum pop-rivet (body & mandrel).....they're plenty strong....stronger than that inner fender!
Exactly correct. Stainless or std. steel pop rivets have too much grip strength for fiberglass use. Save those for metal/metal joining. All aluminum rivets with aluminum backing washers is the way to go.
-
Yeah, I'd plan to just practice my "surprised look" for the day you sell it, and settle for anything reasonable while you own it. Went through a similar ordeal registering a chopper made from 1972 CB750 bike. It's an AMEN frame, Savior model, mfr. title from another State. Kept going around and around until some Honda car from/for the SE Asian market, so when the possibly 12 year old counter guy pointed excitedly and said, "There it is!" I quickly matched his excitement and said, "Yeah!". After what seemed like an hour, it only took another 5 minutes before he hit the PRINT button and I was heading to the next window with my checkbook. On older vehicles, I figure the name of the game is "get plates, get title/registration, and get out the door" and all I want is a X in the WIN column.
-
As above, for the same reasons. If cost is the biggest factor, you probably can't beat a rebuild of the current engine, and you know every hole will line up. If it's more about performance, there's so many hotter builds and you can always fog & save the original engine for "the next guy". If they want original, they can buy it, too.
-
If you haven't already done so, check for free movement of the manifold heater valve (on right side), or better yet, remove it entirely (Jon Myer has a "filler" spacer to take it's place) since in Houston you probably won't ever miss a shot of hot manifold air while the engine warms up.
The blocking procedure for the "stove" under the carb is in the Issue #175 (Summer/Fall 2016) as part of an excellent article by Bill Henderson titled "Intake Modification Stops Stalling in Summer's Heat".
Edit:, missed Stan Gundry's comment above, somehow, sorry for repeating much of it.
-
I have found Seafoam does a great job on sticky valves in 4 stroke lawn mower type engines. Pour some in the crankcase oil and start the engine, let it run at no-load idle for 10 minutes. Drain completely and replace with fresh oil. If you are out of Seafoam, use kerosene/diesel 50/50 as crankcase oil and do the same. I had a 8hp rototiller that used to skip a beat at high rpms. Turned out it was a valve floating and the Seafoam cleared it right up. It can help clean a carb, also, but at a very premium price. I've not tried kerosene... ☺
-
14 hours ago, Billy Shears said:
Personally, unless the Studebaker is in worse shape, I'd go for the '64, but that's me. I used to own a '75, but I was never quite happy with it, and ended up selling it and buying a '63. I only bought the '75 in the first place because I missed by one lousy day the '63 R2 4 speed Dan Booth had for sale. Someone else snapped it up just before I called about it. I wanted the raked stance and the round headlights, and the Studebaker original is simply always going to be worth more. Also, and this may mean nothing to anyone else, but whenever I was asked about the car (and they do attract a lot of attention, and therefore questions), I found I always had to explain the car's history at length to tell people what it really was -- they tended to assume it was kit car, and I always had to correct them.
The plus side of the Avanti II is that it's got a lighter engine, which helps remove some of the front weight bias that the originals suffered from, and the Chevy engine will be a little easier to get parts for. If you're going to do any restoration, you can do whatever you want as far as paint and interior goes, because there were no factory colors/materials; Avanti Motors would paint it whatever color the customer wanted, and use any interior materials the customer wanted, so you don't ever have to feel badly about departing from factory original specs to have it the way you want it, and it won't affect the value any.
Funny world, I wanted a '64 because I love the rectangular lenses. I can still remember around 1965 carefully carving out the round body holes for the optional rectangular lenses/frames when building the 3 in 1 AMT model kit where you could choose which ones you wanted since the kit came with round holes but both headlamp style parts.
2021–all-electric Avanti hits the market
in Avanti Pub
Posted
Maybe Fonzie will use it to jump a tank of sharks?