GlennW

Richly deserved.

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/05/27/this-studebaker-avanti-eats-hellcats?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Wednesday_May_29

Too bad it wasn't a '53, this could be it http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjgu5a_wvPfAhUEyYMKHW5MBe0QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftheoldmotor.com%2F%3Fp%3D147943&psig=AOvVaw0gyOXFCOUlrzT0efP1kdTj&ust=1547769942776329

Yeah, I'd seen (most?) the episode when first aired, just meant it as a heads-up for those who might not have seen it. Kind of painful to watch, IMHO, I don't recall watching the whole thing last time.

FYI, just noticed the episode with a 1983 Avanti is starting right now on the Motor Trend (old "Velocity") Channel.

I probably should have finished with a smiley ☺You seemed so bummed that the subsequent discussion based on the OP's inquiry didn't appear to have been worth it (my take on it) so I hoped to add a positive note. All these discussions are gold, IMHO

Information shared on a bulletin board is never lost. It will always help someone.

Good catch, I'm more dangerous than you Dunno if it's hot all the time, they usually are, so you'd want to use an ign. controlled circuit as Jim78 said.

Yes, removing both wires from the ammeter and connecting them to each other will only take the ammeter out of the system, everything else will be the same. Are they just ring terminals on threaded posts? If so, you can just use the largest size capscrew & nylock nut that will fit, and tape them securely with good quality electrical tape like 3M 33+. I'd use a button head socket capscrew so that combined with the nylock nut, there won't be any sharp corners. If you add another wire & ring terminal with an appropriate length of wire when you connect the two ammeter wires, you'll have the wire needed for the + side of the new voltmeter. The negative will go to the nearest - wire or suitable metal. Keep in mind not all metal in an Avanti is "grounded" i.e. common to the battery +. You don't need to use as heavy a wire for the voltmeter as the ammeter, just whatever the volt meter takes, probably 18ga or less.

Great answer, if you are trying to reproduce a chrome finish that isn't perfectly smooth, a good plater and polisher can usually prepare the surface of the metal so that it is not the normal mirror smooth. Chrome will always reflect the surface of what is on which is why a good Chrome job depends on great base metals and polishing. I imagine that something similar could be done by using the correct media on the bare metal but I don't have a clue what media would be best. You would probably have to have the part dechromed, first and absolutely a good player is the only way to go because if they don't understand how to do what you are asking for they are never going to achieve it by accident ?

Exactly correct. Stainless or std. steel pop rivets have too much grip strength for fiberglass use. Save those for metal/metal joining. All aluminum rivets with aluminum backing washers is the way to go.

Yeah, I'd plan to just practice my "surprised look" for the day you sell it, and settle for anything reasonable while you own it. Went through a similar ordeal registering a chopper made from 1972 CB750 bike. It's an AMEN frame, Savior model, mfr. title from another State. Kept going around and around until some Honda car from/for the SE Asian market, so when the possibly 12 year old counter guy pointed excitedly and said, "There it is!" I quickly matched his excitement and said, "Yeah!". After what seemed like an hour, it only took another 5 minutes before he hit the PRINT button and I was heading to the next window with my checkbook. On older vehicles, I figure the name of the game is "get plates, get title/registration, and get out the door" and all I want is a X in the WIN column.