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Everything posted by 64studeavanti

  1. I live just North of Parrish on 301. Send me a list and I will check to see what I have.
  2. Roy, where are you located? If near either Tampa FL or Crossville TN, I may be able to help with parts, encouragement, and/or expertise.
  3. The suggestion that California required an additional letter because the serial number is too short does not make sense. My Los Angeles destined car is 63R4551 with an 'A' added to the serial plate. In mid 63, Studebaker dropped the year designation from the serial number. The ones with the year designation had a 7 character serial number. The later ones only had 5. There must be another reason for the addition of the letter.
  4. A while back I was speaking to Dan Booth and he had a different take on the additional letter for some CA Avantis. He believes it had something to do with identifying corporate cars, holdover etc. All I know is that 63R4551, which was a Las Vegas Driveaway car, does have the letter A appended to the serial number. It was clearly added after the fact as it is a different font and size. This car was delivered to Los Angeles and does have the quiet exhaust.
  5. Not in my experience. The engines I checked are from a 55 Speedster, 57 & 58 President, 61 Lark, 62 GT. I also checked the timing cover from a very low mileage 63 R1. I do not see a reason for a change in engine assembly/painting procedures. Is there a picture in any Studebaker publication that shows painted timing covers for engines 55 and later?
  6. I agree, they likely did not do much if any masking, hence the overspray. We can surmise that several items such as chrome valley cover, valve covers, intake and water manifolds, as well as other parts, were installed after long block painting. I do find it odd that of the dozen or so engines that have been through my shop, not one has/had an engine color timing cover or fuel pump. Maybe we should take a poll to see how many engine colored timing covers exist. Does any one have a picture of the engine painting/assembly process? Any one left alive that could shed some light on this
  7. IIRC, the vent is on the left tube.
  8. FWIW, in the Avanti workshop manual, figs 10 and 11 on page 9 of the engine section clearly show aluminum colored timing cover and fuel pump. The aluminum color is also clear in fig 12 page 10 in the same section.
  9. Don't want to disagree with Brad, however, every Stude V8 aluminum timing cover I have ever seen was natural aluminum, albeit with some engine paint overspray. Just to confirm, I went out to the shop and 4 engines, which I believe to be unmolested, have aluminum covers au naturel with overspray. I have never seen a black fuel pump. I have several original Carter pumps and all are natural aluminum. Of course, after 60+ years, all timing covers and fuel pumps could have been replaced.
  10. I have supported the bare body, no glass, interior etc, on 2 4x4s. One just ahead of the rear wheel opening and one just behind the front wheel opening. The body is pretty strong and not very heavy. As long as the A pillars and windshield frame are intact, there should be no problem. I have had a body supported in this manner for several months, due to some delays based on medical issues, with no signs of any issues. Now if I can figure out a way to get it safely mounted on my rotisserie... Of course, need my M.D. to clear working again.
  11. Studebaker International is showing the reach rod as 1542004 before serial number 4992 and 1561771 after. These also fit Larks so you may be able to find used. The pitman arm is 1557161. They do not show that part number available. I have heard that the pitman arm from GT Hawks can be used with modifications. You could also try Dan Booth, Stephen Allen Cade and the other usual suppliers.
  12. Ted, it is true you can have standard Stude cams reground to R1/R2 specs or even ST5, however, the correct R1/R2 cam has a different casting number and is not readily available. I am guessing that it also has a little more "meat" on it since it has a higher lift from the factory. Probably not significant.
  13. We will disagree on the Availability of R1/R2 cams. If you know of a stash somewhere, let us know. I Am sure many of us would be interested. Since you asked, my 64 Avanti, serial #5408, has engine number RJ330. That decodes to R1 engine built on September 30, 1963. It came configured as R1 engine. I have since rebuilt it with .060 over flattop pistons, ISKY ST5 cam, block zero decked and otherwise balanced and blueprinted. One other thing you can check is that R1 engines have no transfer slots in the intake manifolds. Standard Studebaker and R2 manifolds do have the slots.
  14. As explained above, RJ304 started as R1 on September 4, 1963. Some P.O. Likely changed the pistons to lower compression in order to run regular gas. The cam could have been sent in as a core for regrind and a regular cam was returned. I suppose it is also possible that the cam was too far gone and since "R" cams are very rare opted for a standard cam. Only the person who built the engine will ever know. I suppose Studebaker could have made a mistake, but I believe that is unlikely.
  15. FWIW, R1 heads have a casting number ending in 570. Same as regular 259/289. The exhaust valves and valve springs are different. The easiest way to tell an Avanti camshaft is to look for the lobe that used to drive the fuel pump on 232s. A correct Avanti cam does not have it. The Avanti cam also has a different casting number. I do not recall what is, but if you want to know, I have a NOS Avanti cam in the shop.
  16. Went ahead and ordered some Evercoat. If it's good enough for Corvettes, it is good enough for me.
  17. I have just finished cleaning the hog troughs on R4551. After removing a bit of undercoating and surface rust, they look like new. I did break off one of the body mount bolts and one of the seat belt nuts came loose. Both have been repaired. FWIW, this car spent most of its life in Los Angeles before coming to FL, according to the past registration receipts in the glove box. In any case, they appear to have been painted black from the factory. The only other color on them is some over spray from the body (turquoise). While I not a big fan, I am considering POR 15. Since I clea
  18. Tried a heat gun today. Need surprisingly little heat to soften it up. Kept a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Was able to clean some undercoating from the torque boxes and floor pan. It is thicker in the fender areas so may require more effort.
  19. I am doing body off and need to re-bond some panels, for example the door outer skin to the door frame. What are you using for glue? I am leaning toward Evercoat Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler.
  20. Have used one on steel bodys as well. Used cowl mounts and rear trunk area. First time on fiberglass. Some of the glass is very thin, especially in the rear floor area. This area is usually supported by the frame.
  21. The three points under discussion would require quite a bit of fabrication as the widths of those three points are different as well as height. Like Brad, I have been using the hogs as they are the strongest part of the body.
  22. Leaning toward firewall mounts for front. IMO, using the radiator support mounts leaves a lot of unsupported fiberglass. I am afraid it would at least crack if not worse. Will investigate the trunk floor. For now, I have the shell resting on a pair of 4x4 spanning the front and rear of the hogs.
  23. Saw that on Corvette forum. They suggested plastic scraper. Also suggested several petroleum distillates such as kerosene. Has anybody had any success with a method?
  24. If you are looking for spares, there is a complete setup from a 62 GT Hawk on ebay for $150. The reach rod and steering box would be different and you could not use the column, but the rest of the parts are usable.
  25. I am looking for suggestions as to where to mount body shell on rotisserie. The hog troughs seem to be good. Any other ideas?
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