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  1. Today
  2. I have one if you are not looking for pure stock. It was the type that was open at the bottom, and I closed it in with fiberglass. Additionally I cut it fore and aft on each side, bolted on small pieces of half inch angle iron which can be bolted together, allowing the top half of the fan shroud to be lifted off for easy access to the fan/water pump. PM Me at chuck@lampman.com if you are interested.
  3. Thanks for the thoughts above. I am not much of a mechanic, so need all of the help I can get. After thinking about the problem , it must have been either the solenoid or starter, of course. Since I had strong lights I reasoned there must be power from the battery to the solenoid. To find out if I had power to the starter, I hooked a jumper cable to the starter side of the solenoid and then touched the other end of the jumper to the positive post on the good battery. A few sparks, but the starter turned over , and then I immediately disconnected the jumper from the battery. I guess this told me that the solenoid was not giving power to the starter. Just for the hell of it, I tried to start the car again. After trying to start it 3 or 4 times, I only got a fairly solid solenoid click each time, but no starter. The fifth try activated the starter. After running the car a bit I turned it off and tried again. One click, no starter, then the second try activated the starter. I had purchased a new solenoid, but wanted to make sure the old one was broken. I cleaned the starter side terminal on the solenoid and reassembled. Now the car seems to start on each starting try, so maybe it was a bad connection that needed cleaning. We live in a semi remote area, so I still don't have complete confidence to take off in the car alone, and hope to get back home, but all ran just fine this afternoon. I'll keep the new uninstalled solenoid just in case, but with everything seeming to work, I'll not install it now. Again, thanks for the help, Daryl
  4. I jack on the front crossmember at the steering pivot point. And place the jack stands rear of the front wheels near the start of the x frame. This allows access to all of the lube points. I do not know if this is the ideal position but it works for me. I look forward to hearing other suggestions/recommendations.
  5. Yes my particular county in AZ requires emissions testing for vehicles made after 1967. I have a vehicle inspection appointment scheduled for tomorrow and hopefully will have the issue resolved.
  6. Have you checked with SMS in Oregon? I got some Elk and Fawn from them a few years ago.
  7. Yesterday
  8. I went to NAPA to get a National 410059. it crossed to NAPA 15005. Leak gone! Thanks to everyone for your help. John
  9. i removed cowcatcher from RQB-3263....and then all bumpers....see pics
  10. I had my cow catcher bumper removed and the driving lights remounted to the two pieces remaining from the bumper. No cutting required. I did save the bumper and will send along with the car if I ever sell it, if someone wants to remount the shin banger.
  11. Not sure if this is a perfect match, but they might be able to help. Also, if you need just a small amount of fabric, there are quite a few folks who do Avanti restorations. One of them may have removed the fabric you need while doing a restoration. http://avantiparts.biz/upholstery-avanti-63-to-71/
  12. It is not just an Avanti thing. All older cars had neither a VIN nor a number on the dash. They must have rules to handle this as all states do. I guess that you just have to find the correct person. I am surprised that the car needs an emissions test (no OBD II port to plug the computer into) and not just a simple safety inspection.
  13. I have a 1963 Avanti and a hydraulic jack and jack stands. I wish to jack up the front end and install jack stands in front. I understand that the rear wheels should be blocked during this process. 1. What is the proper point to place the jack when raising the front end ? 2. Where should the jack stands be placed after raising the front end ?
  14. Hard to believe no one has registered a pre-80's car there before but you should be fine at the next level. Take a picture of your car and a small summary of the Avanti with you. I had a picture of my 83 which had no title as it was from Vermont and they don't issue them at that age. They did issue a document of sale, however. The gal at the local Michigan DMV loved the car and she was very cooperative in making sure it got titled here. BTW, the DMV had rules to cover these issues and she just looked it up.
  15. Last I heard no one was reproducing it. The market is quite small and it wouldn't be possible to sell enough to make a run to keep the price reasonable. I have seen ads looking for even small amounts of NOS material for repairs. Rob
  16. Yes, the lack of a 17-digit VIN is the problem. The DMV people keep expecting to find it on the left lower corner of the dashboard, and when they don't see it they think the car has been tampered with. So far the situation had been a little time consuming if not somewhat amusing. Because the car is from another State, Arizona will not allow it to be titled and registered (in Maricopa County) unless it has passed a state emissions test. The emissions test station will not perform the test without documentation, (such as a valid AZ title) from the DMV that the serial number is the accepted VIN. They will not accept any of my documentation from Illinois. I have an appointment scheduled at another DMV facility for a "level 2" vehicle inspection to try to sort the mess out. I'll keep my fingers crossed!
  17. Last week
  18. mfg

    Museum Reaches Out!

    That is one TERRIFIC idea!
  19. You're welcome Gary!...I'm always happy to help!
  20. Anyone have a part number for the passenger side window regulator for a1989 Convertible

  21. It would be nice if the SNM could get the #22 car loaned to them for display from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway museum. I'm pretty sure I have been to the IMS museum and not seen the #22 car on display every time. If they take it out of rotation, send it to South Bend!
  22. You can use the same rear seal as the GM T 350 or 700 R 4. Lou Cote
  23. Thank you! You finally came around to my initial answer! I tried to support the other possibilities when you told me that I was incorrect. I saw the record breaking Avanti shortly after Joe Erdelac had it shipped to him (he didn't want to add miles to it). Joe had it garaged by R5643 and other low mileage Avantis.
  24. Try a National #410059. That's an older number so it may have changed.
  25. I got the old seal out, mfg's system worked great. In comparing the old seal to the new one I bought, it appears they are not the same size. I was sold a National 473234: 1.687x2.502x.312. The outside and inside diameter of the new seal is slightly larger than the old seal so I don't think it will work. Does anyone have a part number for the correct output shaft seal for an Avanti automatic.? Thank you. John
  26. MYSTERY SOLVED!...... We enlarged the e-bay photo at work today........It became quite obvious that this photo was 'doctored' by someone with the intention of making a '64 'square light' Avanti into a '63 'round light' version. (The reason someone would want to do this completely escapes me!!) Look closely at the round headlights...they seem to be out of proportion (larger) than normal....also check the irregular shape of the round headlight ring, especially the one on the right.... (passenger side). As I mentioned to Paul (r1lark) several months ago, I believe that this Avanti actually is a 'true' 1964 square light model!.............By the way, notice that there's some damage on the leading edge of the right fender and possibly damage to the right bumper end. As an aside, I still find it a bit humorous anyone "into Avantis" would think that there were TWO Sears-Studebaker Cross Country Avantis, or that the '64 'square headlight' fiberglass nose panel was replaced, (by Studebaker Corp.), with a 1963 'round headlight' nose panel! I want to make it clear that I was initially taken in by the altered e-bay Avanti photo and thought that I may be looking at a 19631/2 'transition model' Studebaker Avanti.....however, I now feel the correct answer to this trivia question is #4.....True '64 'square light'
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